Continuing with my Eyeshadow Palette Brand Ranking Series, we have Melt next! This was very tough because the quality is so similar across the board. It really comes down to color story for this one and how often I actually use the eyeshadows, not just look at them admiringly.
Melt Cosmetics Eyeshadow Palette Ranking: (Most Favorite to Less of a Favorite)
Being in the bottom three of something never sounds good, but I had very few issues with these palettes, save for Smoke Sessions. Melt Cosmetics is known for having, at the very least, a stellar matte formula. It’s a bit ironic that the most hyped non-limited edition palette from the brand is the one that is the worst performing on me. That being said, I still consider it a decent product. The reason it’s on the bottom is because it’s the only palette from Melt (in the rectangular pans) that had mattes that are stiff and took a bit of time to blend. The shimmers are not impactful without being dampened and are the only ones from Melt that give me any creasing. As for the color story, I love half of the palette and completely ignore the other half (the cool-toned blue-green shades). The first two photos at the top of the page were taken before I left the US. Because this particular palette is known for having the most problematic formula in terms of how long it can last before it goes bad, I was worried it wouldn’t last. However, I haven’t had any issues with any of my Melt palettes all this time. I consider myself lucky!
The Zodiac palettes have only the slightest lower matte quality than the top 4 in the ranking. The color stories are beautiful, but not unique, which is why I didn’t reach for them as often as the others. The shimmer quality of these is actually better, but having a good shimmer isn’t as impressive of an achievement as a good matte. These are the only reasons I put them lower. They just have so much competition in my eyeshadow collection that they are the last palettes that come to mind when I think to reach for some Melt shadows.
Mi Amor
I like the performance of the shimmers in the Amor y Mariposas palette more than the top 3, but that wasn’t enough to get the palette to be bumped up higher on the list. 4 of the 14 mattes take extra time to blend because they are pressed pigments. They aren’t shades I use that much, so it isn’t as strong of a negative point against this palette. The color selection is beautiful. The pans in this palette are the same size as the Zodiac ones. I had the idea to depot them into those smaller palettes a bit too late. As much as I liked the colors, I didn’t reach for the palette as often because of its large size and how I inconveniently stored it. I didn’t use this palette enough, which is quite telling where it stands with me.
The Top Three
The palettes in this category have all been partially depotted at some point during my ownership of them, and I’ve taken them traveling as part of custom magnetic palettes. In fact, the flatlay photo above shows which ones were taken from a previous trip.
Rust is a beautiful warm neutral palette. I love the mattes in there to use as the transition and crease shades for a starting eyeshadow look. I usually pair them with a Clionadh shadow or other special shimmer, duochrome, or multichrome shade from my collection. The reason it’s number three is because the shimmers don’t give enough impact, even when applied damp, and I have sealing issues with the shades Tarnish and Ravage.
I love purples, so it makes sense that I like She’s in Parties. However, it’s warm purples I prefer and this palette has a mix of both cool and warm shades. The matte quality is fantastic. The shimmer quality is fairly decent in terms of performance and with passable levels of sparkle. This palette has light and dark shades, but it’s hard to get something in the middle. I may not use She’s in Parties as much as Rust, but the quality is overall better. So, it ranks second best.
Gemini II has green shades that I adore! Almond Eyes and Matheo are some of my favorites from my entire collection! I can also get tired of pinks pretty fast, but the ones in this palette are the kind I love! Warmer pinks are great! The matte quality is superb, blendable, and pigmented. The shimmers are as good as it gets from Melt.
When it comes to using the Gemini II palette, I never use the pinks and greens together. Technically, that means I don’t consider it as cohesive of a palette, but I get a lot of use out of it by pairing it with other palettes and single eyeshadows. This gets the number one spot due to having the best quality and me liking every color in this one.
Another indication is that I only depotted Love Sick and Boy Mum, then took the entire rest of the palette with me when I moved! My most used shades from She’s in Parties and Rust came along in a custom palette as well, but the largest number of Melt eyeshadows came from Gemini II. The photo below shows all the long rectangular pan eyeshadows I ended up taking with me to Germany.
I created the custom palette as well with a mix of Zodiac Earth and Amor y Mariposas shades, but when my luggage went over the weight limit and I needed to leave some makeup behind, that one was unfortunately the one that had to stay back.
What can also be spotted are four Smoke Sessions shades. This is because those were my favorite colors from the palettes, but mostly also because I waited so incredibly long to buy that palette. I did not want to leave all of them behind. So, it’s a matter of principle and less about thinking I would miss them. My top three are the ones I would miss most because of the mattes. Melt’s mattes are within my top five favorite formulas of all time! It’s a shame I don’t feel the same way about most of their shimmers, but I have more than enough shimmers I love. It’s much harder to get me excited about mattes, which this brand certainly nails most of the time.
The final point I wanted to discuss is the acknowledgement that I have zero palettes from Melt that came out between 2023-2025. The only two that interested me were Smoke Sessions II and The Bride of Frankenstein. I skipped getting Smoke Sessions II because those are still not the kind of purples I wear often enough, plus my concern that the quality could be similar to the original Smoke Sessions that ranked last on my list. I would have absolutely bought The Bride of Frankenstein Palette if it was available to purchase in Germany. The only retailer I know that sells Melt Products is Purish, and they did not stock that one. I looked into international shipping from Melt’s own website, and it’s just too costly. So, only the future will tell if I ever get my hands on that one.
I got to this review much later than expected, but I promised The Olive Unicorn Beauty I would make more of an effort to bump it up on the list. I think this is good timing considering Melt has recently launched 4 new mini palettes as part of their upcoming Bad Side Zodiac Collection and I know others share my hesitation to purchase Melt’s eyeshadow palettes given their history. Perhaps my review today can help tip the interest in either direction for someone curious about that upcoming release.
This post will mainly focus on reviewing Melt’s She’s in Parties Palette, but I did not purchase it through traditional means. This palette was part of Melt’s Black Friday Mini Mystery Bundle that was released November 2021. There was a large box for $75 and the smaller one I bought was $25 (plus $10 shipping). I watched Amy Loves Makeup post a video ASAP and considering all the boxes were supposed to be the same (and were still in stock at the time), I figured it was totally worth finally being able to try out my first Melt palette and the Sexfoil liquid highlighter formula for less money than the eyeshadow palette alone would cost.
The photo above from panningcorner on IG shows the mystery items from the $25 box, although I don’t recall getting the pencils, single eyeshadow, nor sample in mine. The liquid lipstick I believe I gave away. So, what I ended up keeping was the palette, mascara, and liquid highlighter which I will briefly review the other two in this post as well.
Regarding the mystery boxes, the brand continued to put them out in December 2021, January, and February of this year, but I believe the February box (or perhaps one more in March) was the last one. I loved that they were doing these and it wasn’t just older palettes that were a possibility to receive. The newer Brunet palette was an option for one of them, and I think the Mary Jane as well. I’m hoping that this Black Friday, they bring the Mystery Boxes back or offer a fantastic deal, even potentially coinciding with the severely discounted Amor y Mariposas Collection that was a newer and quicker reviewed purchase of mine.
Melt Cosmetics She’s in Parties Palette
I started working on this post in Spring, but other eye-catching makeup took priority. One benefit to this delay is that I’ve had the She’s In Parties Palette open and exposed to the elements for over six months, which is typically the benchmark for when any formula issues start to crop up (if at all) with Melt’s palettes. I am happy to report that my palette hasn’t had any changes to it and is still nice and usable, as well as my Amor y Mariposas palette. What a relief!
So based on my experience with both of those palettes, I fully understand why people rave about Melt’s mattes. They really are great. The Amor y Mariposas palette had pressed pigment mattes which required a bit more effort, but the three mattes in this palette are stellar! They’re buildable, blendable, and very pigmented! Total Immortal is a great shade to blend out a shadow in the crease, though it’s a bit light to be alone in the crease without a deepening shade, for my taste. It also had a little trouble sticking to my eyelid, but I can get there in the end and I usually put shimmers on my lids anyway. Last Caress is a medium-dark mauve but it goes on the eyes way darker than I expected from how it looks in the pan! I wanted that as my crease shade for most looks, but it’s so dark that it makes every eye look I created appear as though I was using Meanstreak in the crease instead, even when I hadn’t. So, without a true medium shadow in this palette, nearly every look I create turns out dark and dramatic, even when I purposely intend to create something on the lighter and brighter side. This palette is very much for dark vampy looks! And yes, Meanstreak is a nice deep burgundy, though the texture is a bit drier and rougher than the other mattes which are soft to the touch. However, it still performed just as well.
I usually describe what I did for my eye looks, but I created these so long ago, I can’t recallfor certain.
I was very much looking forward to trying Melt’s shimmers, but Strange Love is the only shade that has a lot of sparkle to it and it’s not the kind of shadow I typically use all over the lid. It’s the kind I’d use mostly in the center of the eye and/or the inner corner. Skeleton Kiss also has a nice amount of shimmer to it, but because the white base color is kind of transparent, it’s more of a topper kind of shade and just looks sparkly pink. It’s another one I would use in the exact same way as Strange Love. The remaining pigmented colorful shimmers in the palettes are more like satin shadows. They are smooth, with very refined and small size shimmer particles. They are also on the thin side but fully opaque and not powdery. They also don’t crease on me. I can use She’s In Parties, the deep red, and Sleepwalk, the dark plum, in the crease in place of mattes, but I prefer to stick to my safe zone and use them as lid shades even though that also guarantees my looks remain on the darker dramatic side. As for Lost Control, there are shimmer flecks in the shade, but it’s so subtle that I’m left with a mostly matte looking shadow. This is something I don’t mind, although I would have preferred if it was either entirely matte so I won’t have a random few twinkling specks in the outer corner, or if it was a full on shimmer that could add some bling to the looks.
Overall the quality is great, the shades are pretty, and there’s something sophisticated about this palette and color story. I think it’s quite textured-lids-friendly as well. I can use any primer with it, and it performs well. So, while I personally prefer sparkle and drama to my shimmers and would have liked a true medium tone matte shade, I do recommend this palette.
Melt Cosmetics SexFoil Digital Liquid Highlight in Fetish
Melt’s imagery for this product is so attractive that I haven’t stopped wanting to try more, even though liquid highlighters are my least used form of highlighters. I’ve established in every review of this kind that I never use them enough to be worth purchasing. Unlike the Auric Glow Lust, Charlotte Tilbury Hollywood Flawless Filter, and other liquid shimmer products that can be mixed with foundation to impart a glow or to be used in other creative ways, the SexFoil is more metallic and best suited for highlighting in the traditional manner. I’m able to pack it on to look extremely intense or, as is my preference, use it sparingly and blend it out so that it’s a little more on the subtle side. I was surprised that I ended up loving Fetish despite it being one of the two lightest shades in the line and a pink to boot! It looks stunning when coupled with a pink blush. I also like that it fully dries down, so I don’t have to deal with any stickiness or transfer other than perhaps a few shimmer particles.
I would have loved to take additional photos showing various intensity levels but this is the only picture I have wearing the product and as I’ve noted on the Home Page of my blog, I’ve had spine surgery again and am in a long recovery process which makes taking blog photos a lot more difficult and will continue to be an issue the rest of this year. So, I just had to work with the photos I took prior to my surgery.
This product makes me wish I could get more on board with liquid highlighters because I like this formula and I still wish I could get more, although I believe having a full ounce of this is excessive. I can’t even finish a foundation of the same size in time before it expires. Having this much product would be wasteful even if I did use it on a regular basis. “Minis” would have been more practical. In addition, the full price of $39 is more than I’m willing to pay, no matter how much I like it. I’d be all in at $25 and $30 would still be pushing it. But that’s just my opinion.
*UPDATE October 13, 2022 – It occurred to me that the majority of the time I’ve been using this product was on top of cream blushes, many of which are of a stiffer and opaque formula, so I did not notice it removing any product underneath. However, I recently had an issue of it removing product when applied over a powder blush and a bit in the area of my KVD Good Apple Concealer. This did not happen the time before when I used the exact same products. The only difference this time was that I also applied foundation in that area and a bit under my eyes in my dark circle zone whereas I usually reserve that spot for laying concealer down first and then having foundation on the edges. Meaning, I usually apply concealer first and add foundation after wherever it’s needed, rather than the more traditional process of putting foundation everywhere and spot concealing after. The EL Futurist Hydra Foundation is dewy and more emollient rather than being stiff and doesn’t completely dry down on its own, so perhaps that was the culprit for why I suddenly had a problem with it, but I wanted to at least include this information to be careful what products one is using with the SexFoils.
Also, I am obsessed with the shades of SexFoils and the metallic look, but it is a little more difficult to work with because of the amount of product that gets dispensed out. I am usually good about squeezing out the tiniest amount, but while I still have a little trouble with the fingertips of my dominant hand (lingering post-surgery complication with my right arm that I’m sure will be fully healed in a few more weeks), it occurred to me that others may be squeezing out too much as well. So, my thoughts on this product is that I still like it, but it’s not as user friendly when I started looking at it even more critically. And in terms of formula, (based on samples I’ve tried) the Rare Beauty Positive Light Liquid Luminizer Highlights are metallic but can also be intensified or sheered out, fully dry down, are easier to control, are a more reasonable product size, and are significantly less expensive. So, as much as I’m still drawn to these from Melt, I recommend looking into the Rare Beauty ones as a potentially better version of the SexFoils.
Lastly for this update, I did end up purchasing (via Mercari) the shade Gold Ore and can share some additional photos today, but please excuse the skin tone differences between my old picture and this one. Although it was a seven month difference, I’m also pretty sure I was testing out a foundation that was a little dark for me at that time of the older photo. As for the new one, it was a cloudy day so I relied a lot on my indoor lighting, which meant the photos I took were washed out, despite me choosing the darkest of the bunch.
Since Gold Ore is so close to my skin tone, it is quite subtle, even when built up. It’s mostly just shimmer particles that are apparent and the base color is barely lighter than my skin, so the highlighting effect is low. For this reason, it’s unfortunately not my favorite. I think the shade Peaches and Cream might have shown up better because of the undertone being different and standing out, but I normally try to match my tone with highlighters and I don’t usually go for colorful ones, so I chose Gold Ore instead. Considering the newly recognized learning curve to the SexFoils, I won’t be buying another one to try out. The only liquid highlighter I will purchase again is from Rare Beauty.
*UPDATE October 18th, 2022 – It’s highly unusual for me to need to update a post so many times, but I made one final attempt to get more accurate photos of these worn on my cheeks. A better photo representation is below. I wore a different foundation this time and still had issues with my concealer coming off when the SexFoils were applied in that zone and required that I reapply a thicker layer to cover it up. My dark circles are particularly intense right now and in a wider area than usual, so I’m thinking this is just a temporary problem and when I get back on a normal sleeping routine and no longer anemic (another post-surgery complication), the dark circles will shrink back to their normal range and I won’t need to apply concealer that low onto my cheek area and therefore also not interacting with the Melt SexFoils. My foundation coming off wouldn’t be as big of a problem for me if it didn’t show nearly black underneath it because of my current dark circle problem.
Melt Cosmetics Supernatural Lash Mascara
I’ve only used this mascara a handful of times (it has only been open for a month), but I haven’t had any issues with it in terms of smudging or flaking or excessive clumping, though it wants to start clumping at two layers. It’s a wet formula. I like the depth of black color. I like the length it provides, although it’s tough to fan out my lashes in a way that I prefer. This formula has the tendency to want to make my lashes go straight and not really curl or curve. I don’t use mascara curlers because mascaras I like have that effect without it. This one, not as much. The length is right, but I prefer to have a little more volume along with it. I also don’t like using this mascara for my lower lashes because I always smudge it there due to the applicator’s size and shape, and have to clean it up with some concealer afterwards.
The photo on the left shows no mascara. It looks like I have hardly any upper lashes, but my concealer and eye primers usually get a little on my eyelashes and make them harder to see because it’s blending in with the primer color. In addition, my lashes naturally stick outward except at the very tips, so it’s hard to see how long they are without mascara to lift them upwards. The right photo shows what my lashes look like with two coats of the Supernatural mascara.
The first coat of this mascara gives me length. The second coat gives me no additional length, but adds slightly more volume. My favorite mascaras are the kind that I can build up in one go before it dries. This one starts to dry on my lashes before I’m satisfied with the volume level, hence needing to do an actual second coat. This isn’t a deal-breaker for me. I wouldn’t mind doing two coats of a mascara if the end result was fantastic. The end result of this one is okay enough for me to be willing to keep using it until it’s finished, but not enough to want to purchase again, even at a lower price, when my favorites take less effort and give me more of what I’m looking for on my eyes.
I continue to be intrigued by Melt Cosmetics. I like the brand and always want to try more products, though the full retail price usually pumps the brakes on me buying all the makeup from them that I want to, like their newest bronzer launch. For those wondering, I did end up ordering the Air palette from the Zodiac Collection and am waiting to see what other products are part of that lineup.
That concludes this week’s post! Thank you for reading!
*Note: Also, stay safe my fellow Floridians with Hurricane Ian approaching!