Luxury Eyeshadows: Pat Mcgrath, Surratt, and Lisa Eldridge

My previous Luxury Makeup post was months in the making, and the next one was heading down that road as well. Rather than take a few weeks off of posting, which would have been necessary to complete it, I decided to split it into smaller parts. Today’s post will be dedicated to the high-end/luxury eyeshadows I have yet to review on this blog.

Pat Mcgrath Labs Mothership IX: Huetopian Dream

Astral Amethyst Moon is the real reason I wanted this palette, and perhaps 3-4 other colors. Because I felt like half of these shades were similar to what I already own from Pat Mcgrath, I told myself I wasn’t allowed to get it unless the price dropped to $80 at most.
Well, at the end of June, Huetopian Dream was on sale for the lowest I’ve ever seen and it was under my maximum price, so I finally bought it!

The mattes are the high pigment, blendable, smooth, fantastic quality I’ve come to expect from Pat Mcgrath. Skinshow Nude Xtasy is the typical fine shimmer satin-feeling highlight shade. The three baked shadows are the flaky, slightly rough feeling (Bronze Solaris 005 is a bit smoother), dry, high impact shimmers that look fantastic, but are best applied on top of glitter glue or with a dampened brush to minimize fallout. I love the colors and intensity of the baked shades, though the tricky application process and fallout issue prevents me from using them as often as I should.

There are three shadows that surprised me though. Blitz Sextreme is less opaque than I expected based on my experience with the Divine Rose 2 palette’s Sextraterrestrial shade. Sextraterrestrial was so good that it kept me from buying the closest Clionadh equivalent for several years. I am dissatisfied with how Blitz Sextreme looks on my eyes unless I use glitter primer, which I had to apply in the second eye look below. It wasn’t until I compared the two “triochromes” side by side that I realized they’re different in texture as well. Sextraterrestial is a baked shadow whereas Blitz Sextreme feels close to gel-like. It feels like a Juvia’s Place multichrome. Perhaps it’s not a matter of skimping on the pigment as I originally suspected. Typically, when a brand uses this kind of formula, they have a black base to intensify it or at least some other base color that will enhance the multichrome, whereas in the baked form the pigments are practically concentrated. So, I wish that when they switched to making a triochrome in a non-baked form, they did something so that I wouldn’t have to help it along by packing it onto glitter glue myself. Perhaps the target PML customer would appreciate a more subtle multichrome, but that’s definitely not me. Clionadh proved with their Earth Vibrant line and more neutral colored Stained Glass shadows that it’s possible to make “wearable” duochromes and multichromes that are toned down based on color, while being fully opaque. When applied as is, Blitz Sextreme is an example of the kind of subtle I don’t like. To me, if a product like that is too weak to be able to see the color shift well enough, what’s the point? Without a shift, it may as well be a regular shimmer, which would be more affordable to make anyway.

The other two that were unexpected were Bronze Desire and Cosmic Bloom which also felt more like a gel rather than creamy feeling for PML’s “typical” shimmer formula. I had issues with them creasing in the beginning, but two months later, these feel a lot less wet. With it being less wet, the creasing isn’t as prominent either. I still try to keep these shades strictly on the lid though and avoid the crease, but I’m happier with their performance now. It was very strange that this happened at all though because I don’t recall anyone saying that in their Huetopian Dream reviews when they first launched. Perhaps it’s just my palette, but I’m glad it’s not an issue anymore.

Overall, I like this palette. I definitely would have been unhappy if I paid full price though. It’s not to say the quality is bad. I think it’s very good quality with a few little differences from past palettes. The thing that I have trouble understanding though is Astral Amethyst Moon’s presence here. It’s supposed to be the star of the palette considering it’s the most colorful shade with the brightest pop, even surpassing the triochrome. However, the other shades in this palette don’t fit with it. They don’t play off or enhance that color in any way. Astral Amethyst Moon is like a powerhouse of vibrancy, whereas everything else is too soft to support it. I thought Shockwave would be the color to do it, but it’s so much more muted on my eyes, and really not that much deeper than Secret Eden. Xtreme Plum Noir at least gives it some drama because of its depth, but when I build it up, it looks more brown than plum which isn’t as exciting. In my final eye look above, I used last year’s holiday palette to give an example of the type of colors I expect to help support this shadow. I wish this shade wasn’t tied to this largely pink-neutral color story. If I’m in the mood for those tones, I’m going to completely ignore Astral Amethyst Moon when I open the palette. If I’m doing an eye look and want a colorful vibrant lid shade, it’s unlikely I’m going to whip this one out just for that one shadow. It would have been better off in a quad, but whoever decided to put it in this palette got me to spend far more just to get it. Congratulations to them. I couldn’t let that shadow go, and honestly, I still don’t regret getting it at the reduced price.

Surratt Beauty Artistique Eyeshadow in Dore and Noir Le Plus Noir

These are normally $22 each, but for some reason these particular shades were on sale on Surratt’s website for $8.80 each instead. I was willing to pay the extra $5 shipping in order to try and see why these eyeshadows are raved about so intensely among the luxury beauty community.

Now that I’ve used them, I understand the hype. These remind me of Suqqu shadows in texture, and I believe Surratt eyeshadows are made in Japan as well. Both brands’ eyeshadows are thin, but after the initial layer with Suqqu, it doesn’t really build up beyond that. These Surratt shadows build up to a stronger intensity if I want them to, while still being just as blendable. However, as great as the formula is, it’s not so much better than the rest as to be worth it to me to spend $22 per eyeshadow if it’s not a multichrome. If I see more of these available online at a reduced price, then I might be interested in getting a few more.

Lisa Eldridge Liquid Lurex Eyeshadow in Titania, Zora, and Liza

Considering what I just mentioned above, it’s a bit funny how I don’t look at single eyeshadows the same way when it’s in liquid form. I guess it’s because I am rarely tempted by them, so if a brand can get me interested enough in theirs to buy it, they deserve the money they’re charging for them.

Other than these from Lisa Eldridge, and Sydney Grace, I think I hadn’t purchased liquid eyeshadows since the Stila Suede ones launched (not to be confused with the 2023 relaunch) in 2019. Technically, I do have Danessa Myricks ColorFixes (from a TrendMood box), but they’re still unopened. What made me interested in these is that they looked stunning on the models on the website, and reviewers said these don’t crack or flake, they last all day, and despite looking packed with shimmer they don’t have fallout which makes them great to incorporate in eye looks or for one-and-done looks. I happened to be caught right at the perfect time of wanting a satisfactory single-shadow look, which I normally am not interested in doing.

Essentially, what everyone said about them was true. This is a fantastic formula. They blend in with each other very well and on top of other brands’ shadows. If I use one even layer of product, I don’t get sparkles under my eyes as the day goes on. If I pack it on a bit too thick, then I do notice significantly more glitter particles under my eyes at the end of the day. Also, these shadows set and don’t budge if left alone, but if I touch my eyes I will still get sparkles on my finger though the base color doesn’t come off until I’m ready to remove it.
Melt’s Gel Liners can be used as eyeshadows and eyeshadow bases, but the Lurex has the benefit of feeling like nothing on my lids. I don’t get any tightness. Melt’s aren’t stiff either, but there is more of an awareness of it on my eyes, unlike Lisa Eldridge’s that I forget I’m wearing.

I purchased Titania at the end of last year, then Liza when Lisa Eldridge products began being sold at Selfridges, and then recently Zora finally restocked on the official website. So, I now have all the colors I wanted.

Also, Titania and Liza are sentimental names for me! Honestly, that did partly influence my purchases. Plus, Zora is close enough to Zoro, who is one of my favorite characters from One Piece.


As a bonus, I wanted to show some eye looks combining everything in today’s post.

I hope this has been helpful.

Thank you for reading!

As a last minute note, I wanted to say that I have next week’s post auto-scheduled and ready to go. However, the forecast for Idalia hitting Florida and the level it’s projected to strengthen to, if I’m out of electricity and internet for a significant time or my area sustains damage near to what Hurricane Ian did last year, I might not be able to post for a while.

Update: Thankfully the Hurricane missed where I live and we just experienced the outer bands, which did not knock out our power or internet!

-Lili

Blushes So Good I Needed Another…or So I Thought

Today’s post is a slight twist on my series. Generally how it goes is that at one point I purchased a blush and loved it so much that I needed to get the same one in another shade! The first part can be found HERE as well as the second one HERE.
However, I’m not so sure buying the additional shades was a good idea for each of these new cases.

Fenty Beauty by Rihanna

Fenty Cheeks Out Freestyle Cream Blush in Big Melons and RiRi

My first time reviewing Fenty’s cream blushes was actually in Part 1 of this series.
These don’t have any extra special traits like an atypical cream texture, being transfer-proof, or being super blendable. However, I appreciate its dependable formula that’s pigmented yet buildable, and even easier to blend after it has been warmed up. It lasts all day. It doesn’t disturb my makeup underneath it. It’s not patchy. It mixes well with other cream blushes. My first two haven’t changed in texture, smell, or performance in over three years since I’ve had them even though they’re only marked to be good for 12 months after opening. Admittedly, my tendency to scrape out product instead of dipping directly into it might have played a part in minimizing exposure to things.
The other reason I loved these blushes is the shade variety, having my favorite tone of red-brown in blushes and also having a coral option, my other top favorite blush color.

My absolute favorite cream blush formulas (not counting putty or bouncy) are from LYS and One/Size. This is because I prefer having products that look creamy and skin-like but set down or have minimal transfer. The fact that these remain creamy feeling (though not sticky) on the cheeks and will leave color on my finger if I touch my cheek, is one of the drawbacks that keep me from using them on a more regular basis. Yet, for some reason, when Fenty released five new shades, I couldn’t resist getting a mauve and coral-orange to see if they would be new favorite colors as well.

In trying out the new shades, I discovered that as pretty as Big Melons looks, I still prefer Strawberry Drip a little more. I don’t always like pink corals, but I’ve realized that I tend to prefer them over orange corals. I’m still content enough to keep it. As for RiRi, I discovered that what foundation I’m wearing plays a huge role in whether or not I’ll like the color on my skin. When I wear it on top of a yellow toned foundation, such as Estee Lauder’s Hydra Futurist Foundation in 5W2, more of the purple tone stands out within this mauve color. It has an almost bruise-like look on my cheeks. When I wear it on top of a more golden/orange foundation, as is the case with the Nars Light Reflecting Foundation in 3.3 Caracas, RiRi looks like a deep pink, which I find to be a lot more flattering. Nars lists that foundation color as neutral, but their version of neutral for the medium-deep shades is more like a balance between yellow and red, hence orange.

My apologies for the first set of photos being a bit too warm/dark. One of my usual lights wasn’t on and I didn’t realize it made such a difference. When I retook the photos the next day, I didn’t realize those new ones had a slight green tinge (they look good on my cell phone screen but not on my laptop screen). So, I decided not to use those. Instead, this second batch of photos is my attempt to digitally correct the original ones.

I also noticed that when I mix RiRi and Big Melons together, it becomes a pretty pink shade. So, while I don’t think RiRi or Big Melons look as pretty on their own as Rose Latte or Strawberry Drip on their own, I’m very satisfied with the color the two turn into when combined.

I should also mention that I didn’t forget about the Fenty Double Cheek’d Up: Freestyle Cream Blush Duo, but I haven’t used it again after reviewing it. Those shades being less pigmented and more emollient made the formula just tricky enough to deter me from using it again. If I still don’t use it in the next three months, I’m going to be tempted to depot at least Peony Droppa and put Big Melons in there. That way, I’d have a reason to keep that gorgeous compact.

Glossier

Glossier Cloud Paint in Soar

In my previous review of the Cloud Paints, I included swatches and cheek photos of Dusk, Dawn, Beam, Spark, and Storm. When Soar was released, I thought about how my old Cloud Paints are getting past their time and that I should consider which ones I wanted to repurchase. I decided to get Dusk and Storm as bundle deals from Glossier’s website, along with Soar. Dusk was intended to be my replacement mixing shade, since I always felt it would have been better to mix with than Beam. As for choosing between Storm and Spark, it was a difficult decision, but it came down to me liking the deep rose color more than a straightforward red.

Soar turned out to be brighter than I expected, but just like Storm (previously the newest color before Soar and Wisp), it’s sheerer than the original launch shades. Even though it’s sheerer, I still sometimes mix Dusk into Soar to tone down the vividness, but using fully synthetic bristle brushes instead of my fusion ones or my fingers help me to not go overboard.

Soar applied as lightly as possible while still showing the color (left) and Soar applied heavier, but mixed with Dusk (right).

I used to go back and forth trying to decide which ones I liked more between the Glossier formula or Rare Beauty. I think my answer is solidly Rare Beauty because it’s more opaque in color while still being blendable. It’s far less common nowadays for me to do No-makeup makeup looks, which these are perfect for, so I don’t get much use out of the Cloud Paints compared to the Soft Pinch Liquid Blushes. Since I now know which one is my top liquid blush, I probably shouldn’t have purchased anymore Cloud Paints. However, they’re so pretty that I can’t really regret it.

Rare Beauty

Rare Beauty Soft Pinch Liquid Blush in Virtue and Worth

I’ve been craving more natural blush tones from Rare Beauty, so I thought for certain the two new shades would be an absolute hit with me. I was in another position where Joy and Love needed to be replaced and I had to decide if it was better to repurchase my old favorites or take a chance on the new ones. I didn’t want four full-size products considering I used Joy and Love quite a lot and still couldn’t even finish them up despite being minis. I’m sure they’re nearly empty, but recently they finally showed signs of being too old. So, I don’t want to put them on my face anymore.

Virtue was a risk whether the peachy-nude would show up on my skin tone. It does, but it’s definitely subtle. It’s still a little too beige in color to really suit me, so I don’t think I’ll be reaching for this very often except to mix with other brands’ liquid blushes.
Worth was the shade I was banking on liking the most. I typically mixed Joy and Love together, and I thought Worth would look like a combination of the two, but it’s not. Worth is more neutral as opposed to the warm pink I get when mixing the others. I still think it’s a pretty shade, but it’s not as complimentary on my skin tone by comparison.
I’ve mixed Virtue and Worth together before, but I prefer using Worth by itself instead.

Both of these new shades appear to be less pigmented. I use way more product with the new shades, and it’s not because they’re lighter colors. It shows up with the usual amount, but I add more because I have to build up the opacity.

I really should have stuck to my favorites and purchased a full size of Joy and Love instead of the new ones. In addition, months later I grew curious about Juvia’s Place blushes and purchased shades similar enough in my collection to replace them. The formulas aren’t the same, but the colors are pretty enough to satisfy me. The Rare Beauty ones are very pigmented, but much easier to use than the even more super pigmented Juvia’s Place liquid blushes. But, since I have those, I really shouldn’t replace Joy and Love at this point. Plus, I’ve been experimenting with combining Virtue and Worth with JP’s blushes and it has yielded some pretty results. So, I’m making these work, but in reality the best option would have been to not purchase any JP ones at all, nor the new Rare Beauty ones, and just repurchase my favorite two.

BareMinerals

BareMinerals Gen Nude Blonzer in Kiss of Spice and Kiss of Copper

Kiss of Rose is one of my holy grail blushes, so it was only natural I grew impatient wanting for a shade extension and eventually bought Kiss of Copper. Ironically, it was shortly after that when Kiss of Spice and Kiss of Mauve were announced. I didn’t think either of the new ones would work for me until I saw customer photos of Kiss of Spice looking way darker than the website photos. And strangely enough, after a few uses, mine darkened in the compact!

Left = Official Product Photo, Middle = After One Use, Right = After Three Uses

Mine is way darker than the website photos! I’ve seen pictures online where some people’s Kiss of Spice blonzers are near enough to the brand’s depiction, while others have compacts nearly as dark as mine. So, it seems like which Kiss of Spice one gets isn’t consistent. I didn’t have that problem with the other two shades I own. This color issue isn’t due to my skin tone because it still looks darker than the brand pictures on my palm in direct light, and it’s even darker when turned away from the light.

In any case, I was actually happy it was deep enough to work as a bronzer on me. I anticipated prior to receiving it that I might have to use it as a highlighter instead, but it’s too dark for that. As a blush, it also looks too dark and unflattering. So, I just use it as a bronzer, but unfortunately it tends to look patchy when used that way.

The more I thought about it, the more I wondered if the “patchiness” is merely another issue of the light hitting it and causing some parts to reflect lighter than other spots, hence making it look uneven in color and appear to be missing color in spots where the lighter gold is blending too well with my skin tone. Considering a person is typically in various types of lights throughout the day, it’s not good to have a product that looks unpredictably terrible in some situations, while not in others. I’ve been able to “cover up” the patchiest parts when paired with the other blushes. Perhaps it’s because they reflect differently. I’m not sure. All I know is that I’ve found a use for Kiss of Spice that I like, but I should have skipped that one. As for Kiss of Copper, it’s pretty, but I will reach for Kiss of Rose much more often since it was my favorite of the three original shades anyway. So, once I found my holy grail blush shade and formula, it didn’t make sense to try and find another given the size of my collection.

L’Oreal

L’Oreal 24H Fresh Wear Soft Matte Blush in Daring Rosewood and Fearless Coral

When I saw that L’Oreal released four Infallible blushes, I knew I instantly wanted these two shades. Fearless Coral sold out, but I did get my hands on Daring Rosewood first. I put it on and was so excited because the color looked exactly how I wanted. I looked at it initially and didn’t view myself again. When Fearless Coral became available, I put Daring Rosewood on again to make sure I liked the finish and the blend, so I felt confident ordering it. It wasn’t until I was removing my makeup at the end of the night that I wasn’t as happy with how my blush looked. It was so much darker and less pink. I thought perhaps it just reacted with something else new I was wearing, but it’s every time. Unfortunately, these blushes do darken up on my skin within ten minutes. In the case of Daring Rosewood, it goes from muted neutral pinky brown to mainly brown. With Fearless Coral, it deepens and looks more fuchsia in color. It made me think of those PH adjusting products, but the ingredients list Red Lake 28 instead of Red Lake 27. I can’t remember the other blush I owned that also was Red Lake 28 that I mistook for the PH adjusting type too. I’m not a fan of this level of brightness, but if I apply it lightly, it can look pretty.

Because Daring Rosewood is a tame color on me, I don’t have to worry about how much I apply or the fact that there’s a lot of kickup. As for Fearless Coral, even with one dip into the pan, my instinct is to panic because it looks so intense on my cheeks. I always have to remind myself to trust the process and just keep blending because it does blend out.

Longevity isn’t an issue with these. I like that they’re not the kind of mattes that make my skin look dry. My issue with them is still what happens very quickly after they sit on my skin and I only have myself to blame for not paying attention after the initial application. On the bright side, applying Daring Rosewood to my cheeks and then Fearless Coral on the apples gives me a pink that certainly shows up, but isn’t as intense overall by it being in a smaller area with a more neutral color around it. Sometimes I’m perfectly content to grab two blushes at a time to mix, but I will end up using it less often overall.

Bobbi Brown

Bobbi Brown Sculpted Glow Face Palette in Deep and Bobbi Brown Brightening Blush in Blushed Burgundy and Blushed Coral

I previewed Blushed Burgundy here, and really liked it, but I have to admit that the Sculpted Face Glow palette in Deep has a highlighter and blush in similar tones and depth to Blushed Burgundy. Plus, the highlighter is a repeat in my collection.

I don’t completely regret getting the face palette because that bronzer is so pretty on the skin, but Blushed Burgundy makes it feel nearly pointless to have. Between the two red shades, I like the slightly brighter tone on the skin that Blushed Burgundy has over the palette’s Spiced Terracotta. Plus the gold from the blush compact is shimmery without as much of the glitter specks that are in Copper Glow. Hopefully Bobbi Brown will release baked bronzers as singles so no one else has to buy a trio just to get it.

So, I’m happy with Blushed Burgundy, which I purchased first, but I’m less happy with the face trio. At least the packaging is pretty! Plus, Spiced Terracotta is still a color I don’t mind wearing, especially if I apply something brighter on the apples of the cheek with it.

I had forgotten how intense this builds, so it was my mistake overapplying the bronzer in the left photo, as well as the Blushed Burgundy demonstrations.

This final photo of Blushed Coral was added to the post on August 23rd. I managed to get a better representation of the blush (not wearing bronzer with it or the shimmery strips).

As for Blushed Coral, I bought it on sale and rightly assumed it would show up on me. Unfortunately, I couldn’t capture the true color on camera while worn on my face (just the swatch) because no matter what I tried, I could not get a clear picture without direct light, but the shimmer contained in Blushed Coral reflects strongly and does the disappearing act that happens in blushes like Nars Orgasm and plenty of other pinks with gold shimmer. The two above are the best I could get. Also, the shimmer strips in the compact are too light for me to use for highlighter purposes, but I knew that ahead of time. I only wanted to be able to use the coral color, which looks quite vivid and intense in person. I actually have to be careful not to go overboard.

So, the lesson here that I am continually trying to remember, is that if I already have a blush color I love, seeing more colors that I like, will never be able to compete. This concept, of a blush being so good I needed another, works in situations where the original was exciting and pretty, but had me wishing there were colors in the line that were even more tailored to my tastes.

That’s all for today. Have a great week!

-Lili

MAC, Pat Mcgrath, Hermes, Nars, Rare Beauty, and More 2023 Bronzers Reviewed

Not pictured, but will be reviewed, is the Hermès Bronzer and the bonus bronzers mentioned towards the end of this post.

In my Bronzer Ranking and Declutter post, I mentioned that I would review all the 2023 bronzer releases at least several months later because it wouldn’t be fair to compare them to the others without having tested them thoroughly. I believe I’ve spent enough time with them by now to review them properly, but I’m not ready to include them in an ultimate ranking list. Perhaps I’ll do that during summer 2024.

Included in this post are bronzers that launched, were reformulated/repackaged, or underwent a shade expansion this year.

In the demonstration photos (and whenever I review bronzers), I try to apply it nicely, but it still needs to be seen on camera, so I don’t blend it as much as I normally would. If I applied them as subtly as I would normally wear them in every day life, it would be difficult to see the difference between the bronzer and my natural skin tone. I wouldn’t normally apply bronzer in a way that lines can be seen, and would even apply a finishing powder on top to ensure it was seamlessly blended. Of course, I don’t use a finishing powder when the photos are for the blog since that would be an inaccurate representation of what the bronzer looks like on the skin. So, I always try to find a balance between blending it and ensuring it is visible.

*DISCLOSURE: Non-highlighted links in bold blue font (Example) are standard non-affiliate links. Links marked in bold black font with a light blue background (Example) are affiliate links. Affiliate links allow me to get a commission if purchases are made directly using my link. There is currently just one affiliate link in today’s post.

New Holy Grail?

Hermès Plein Air H Trio Healthy Glow Mineral Powder in 04 Sienne (refill)

Packaging is one of the biggest reasons I sometimes make luxury purchases, but in this instance, the rave reviews of the Hermes formula was convincing enough for me to buy it. I purchased mine through Selfridges because the refill was significantly lower priced on their website than in the US. The refill pan is not magnetic, so I had to put metal stickers on the bottom in order to store it in my empty magnetic palette. The packaging it came in is durable, but I knew I’d be more likely to get use out of it if I kept it in my Z-palette of face products that has a clear lid, rather than the forgettable unicarton. The pan size is wider than nearly every bronzer I own (I have a wide Makeup Revolution compact, but the Hermes pan is too tall in height). So, even if I wanted to depot a compact so I could put this in there, I can only do that with the bronzer compact from Charlotte Tilbury (though it would have gaps around it), or settle for my custom empty palettes.

Each bronzer contains three different colors. It’s unrealistic to use them separately without them mixing at least a little, but the placement of the brush in the pan will determine the depth of color. For example, swirling the brush in a circle around the rim of the pan will get more of that lightest shade. Swiping up and down on the left half or right half, avoiding the darker blocks in the center, would get more of the medium color. Trying to get an even mix of all three colors makes it too light to bronze me properly, so what I do is swipe my brush back and forth vertically between the two darkest rectangles, and that turns out to be the perfect bronzing shade for me. I built it up in the photo below to show the the maximum depth I can get from it. So, if you’re close to my skin tone, know that Sienne is on the subtler side though it still works. I chose not to get Colorado, which from what I’ve seen in photos and reviews is a little darker, but seems to be more red-toned.

I don’t get kick up in the pan and the product picks up easily even with my most delicate natural hair brushes. It’s the most natural looking finish from a standard powder (by standard I mean not baked gelee or cream to powder) bronzer that I own. It’s the smoothest and most refined. It contains shimmer particles that aren’t visible as sparkles on the face, but just enough to add a realistic skin-like look instead of being purely matte. I have no longevity issues. I have zero blending issues, no matter which foundation I use, and regardless if it’s powder-set or not and whether it’s matte or dewy. It’s pretty much perfection. I have to build it up a little, but it’s a low-effort task to complete that takes almost no time at all.

My favorite brushes to use with it have been ones that aren’t too dense but aren’t too airy either, and sweeping style brushes like the Sonia G Jumbo Bronzer and Eihodo RE8-3 Makie Blush Brush.

I still need time to see if this bronzer will eventually get hard-pan with extended repeated use or any other changes, but thus far, it is my #1 powder bronzer.
I should note that the difference in performance between this one and the Charlotte Tilbury powder bronzer, Victoria Beckham Bronzing Brick, and others that have crept their way higher on the list of “standard” powder formulas is so slim, it’s not going to be worth the price difference for the majority of people. To put it in different terms, if the Hermes bronzer scores a 9.8 out of 10, the Charlotte Tilbury scores 9.5 out of 10. At the US prices of $105 (or $67 refill) for Hermes versus $58 (or $41 refill) for CT, it seems simple to conclude Charlotte’s is the better deal. However, that’s really up to each individual to decide based on their own skin type and skin tone. I have no way of knowing how the Hermes bronzer will work on someone with a skin type other than dry. I know some people that don’t like the tones of the other bronzers in the line, and even find Sienne to be too orange based on their undertone. This purchase was worth it to me because of how well it suits me in every way, and I don’t have my perfect color in the CT powder formula specifically. Plus there are luxury lovers who might be perfectly content with paying premium prices for the designer name and the look of the packaging. I’m happy I bought the refill, but I understand why it wouldn’t sound worth it for everyone.

Almost a Three-way Tie: Pat Mcgrath, Nars, and MAC

These three bronzers are the reason this post took so long to complete. I had the hardest time deciding where I rated the formulas because they’re all blendable pigmented powdery mattes (ignoring the MAC radiant finish) that are long lasting and produce an airbrushed finish at similar price points. I felt compelled to review these three together, as they’re so similar, and I will point out the subtle differences along the way.

Pat Mcgrath Labs Skin Fetish: Divine Bronzers in Desert Glow, Bronze Divinity, and Burnished Honey

First, I have to apologize for the fact that I’ve worn the Pat Mcgrath bronzers plenty of times, and had these the longest out of all the new ones, yet I don’t have any photos wearing it that were taken with my main camera before it broke. I made a post on the home page about needing to switch to my cell phone camera now. I hope that this change will still be satisfactory to you.

I don’t have the PML Foundation, but based on their concealers I owned (MD22-24, with 23 being the correct depth), I should be shade 23 or 24 in the foundation. Thanks to the last minute shade suggestions added to the website before launch, I knew Bronze Divinity (MD22-27) was supposed to be my shade. Yet, I couldn’t stop myself from getting Desert Glow (M15 to MD22) and Burnished Honey (MD25-30). I should have stuck with my suggested one, but it’s hard to control myself when it comes to this brand. I’m at least glad I saved some money buying the 006 Duo and then getting Desert Glow later with a 25% off code.

Desert Glow was a little easier to see in spring, but this deep into summer, it’s very difficult to detect since it’s so close to my skin tone now. As for Burnished Honey, it’s still a bit deep and also more of a reddish-orange compared to the more solidly orange Bronze Divinity. Bronze Divinity can be built up more intensely and Burnished Honey can be applied more sheer than depicted in the photos below, so it’s really the undertone that makes a difference between them and why I prefer Bronze Divinity.

That being said, this is an extra warm line of eight bronzers. I love an orange leaning bronzer, but these are some of the strongest orange tones I have in my collection. Those that are the type that prefer cool toned or neutral bronzers might want to look elsewhere unless there’s a shade expansion for the range.

Desert Glow is the only one currently in the line with the pearl shimmer particles, compared to the rest that are semi-matte. Even in the summer, this shade is still useful to me to amp up the glow of Bronze Divinity when used on top of it. This is shown in the photo below where I have Bronze Divinity on the perimeter of my face from my forehead to under the cheek bones, but the cheek bone area is toned down in color from putting Desert Glow on top in that spot.

I’ve always thought the shimmer looked beautiful and refined on the skin, but at certain angles it looks like I used a highlighter as bronzer in photos captured with my cell phone. I’m a bit less happy knowing this now.

Regarding the formula, those that love Pat Mcgrath’s blushes will love this one since it feels pretty much the same, though perhaps slightly drier to the touch. The look on the skin, texture, finish, and performance are identical.

Sometimes I prefer the Nars bronzer over this one because the Nars powder feels softer, not just to the touch with my finger, but even when applied with the same brush it has a smoother glide across the face making it a slightly more pleasurable experience. Sometimes I prefer the one from Pat Mcgrath because I can apply Bronze Divinity in practically two swipes and not have to do more than a few additional swipes for blending because it’s a good tone match and the amount of pigment I want is achieved with such minimal effort.

Nars Laguna Talc-Free Bronzing Powders in Laguna 05 (full-size) and 06 (mini)

This is a buildable formula, and not what I’d call sheer, but it is the sheerest of the three powder ones I’m comparing. This could be a great thing for those who are heavy handed with bronzer. Laguna 6 is the best suited of the nine options for me and looks deep and red in the pan, but because it’s such a lightweight powder, I have to build it up more than the lighter colored Bronze Divinity from PML. Laguna 5 is too close to my skin’s depth and undertone to create a bronzed look on its own. So, on a day that I’m feeling lazier, I use Laguna 6, but I love the tone I get from mixing 5 and 6 together. It’s just more effort and therefore sometimes I can’t be bothered.

For those curious how the new formulation compares to the previous ones from Nars, I have that review here, along with the Laguna Cream bronzer.

As mentioned in that review, I believe the new formula by Nars is just the tiniest bit better than their old one. Because the talc-free version only comes in a matte finish, I’m still holding onto my original one that contains shimmer.

MAC Sunstruck Bronzers in Matte Rich Golden and Radiant Rich Rosy

These perform so well! They give slightly less color payoff than the ones from Pat Mcgrath, but still more than the bronzers from Nars. I love Rich Golden because it’s a deep golden yellow tone, which is not a common bronzer shade in my collection. I have an easier time finding olive than a dark yellow-brown. It’s only this year that I’ve made discoveries of any deep enough to work for me. Previously, my only options were orange, red, neutral brown (and I tried to stay away from cool toned ones). I also have a few more rosy options, though Rich Rosy is closer to orange-red than pink on me.

The difference between the matte and radiant formulas is similar to matte versus satin eyeshadows. Rich Golden has a thinner consistency that’s less compact in the pan, but not so powdery as to have kickup. Rich Rosy has some slip to it and seems to have more adhesion/binding properties. This makes the radiant formula take a little more effort to buff out. I prefer MAC’s matte bronzer compared to Nars for the color and near identical finish/performance. I prefer MAC’s radiant bronzer over the Kosas baked bronzers in the new yellow packaging, though I’m not a big fan of the tone of Rich Rosy. However, there is one gigantic flaw that drops this lower on the rankings and why I can’t recommend it. They stink.

I don’t remember the exact timeline, but essentially MAC released these bronzers online on March 19th. Then a few days later they were abruptly removed from all websites for about a month or so, but my order was still delivered. There was speculation that it was because there was something wrong with them, and some people said it was due to the smell either from having gone racid fast, contamination, or a harmful ingredient. However, if those were true, I don’t think they would have been made available again so quickly (unless it was batch specific and they identified which ones to not sell). I was in Germany when mine were delivered, so I had to wait until mid May to come home and smell them for myself. The first time I opened the compacts, I detected a faint smell in one, but it wasn’t that bad. Every time after that, I either could smell one or both very strongly, but then the smell would dissipate and had me wondering if I imagined things. Now, it’s at the point where the smell is quicker to identify but it does disappear in the air after the container has been opened for a while, but it reminds me of the Beanboozled Vomit flavored Jelly Bean. I wish I had an explanation as to how the smell comes and goes (sometimes the smell even temporarily transfers to my brushes), or what is causing it. At least the smell doesn’t linger from the powders when used on my face, but the mystery bothers me. Kosas bronzers have a frying oil smell due to the use of “clean” ingredients. MAC thus far hasn’t jumped on the clean beauty train for cosmetics, so I don’t know what their excuse is and I haven’t seen any official explanations for it online, nor them even addressing the fact that it was temporarily pulled from the website including all the various retailers of MAC products.

I’m still trying to decide what to do with mine. I’m very torn between liking the formulas, but being concerned about the smell. I would love to at least keep the packaging, since I like reusing them and swapping them with different products inside. However, I did see a comment online about it possibly being the components that smell and not the products, so that wouldn’t be the best solution.

The final thing I wanted to mention is that when I saw the packaging photos online, I hoped it was going to look like the Snowball Holiday 2017 packaging for the Whisper of Gilt highlighter. I see now that it’s a different pattern. Considering both bronzer finishes come in identical packaging, it would have been nice if they added a shiny varnish at least to the radiant ones.

Liquids Drops and Cream Sticks

Armani Luminous Silk Glow Liquid Bronzer Drops in 110

To recap the preview of info I mentioned about this bronzer already in the Armani Beauty post, I don’t think shade 110 will work that well for anyone who wears darker than Armani’s foundation shade 10 or 11. It barely shows on me once I blend it in.
Sometimes this will randomly have a grey tone on my skin. I thought it was because I’d gotten darker, but I now am fairly certain it’s from the sunscreen in there if I forget to shake the bottle well enough before use. I also tend to pick up the excess product on the bore of the bottle with my Patrick Ta Contour Brush, which could have been improperly mixed if I pick it up from that spot instead of using the dropper.

The photos in the rose print shirt were taken May 18th and the black shirt photo was taken July 25th.

This product sheers out a lot when blended, so I have to essentially pack it on for it to still show by the time I’m finished applying blush and highlighter. It looks quite beautiful on the skin and sinks right in like an oil, but it has dimethicone and other “cones” that account for that slip and it being so easily spreadable.
I expected a more glowy/dewy finish, but I think the brand was relying on some of the glow to come from the tiny gold micro shimmer. While the shimmer succeeds giving a pretty golden color to the face, it’s hard to see the shimmer unless you’re really close up to the skin. The sparkles are very obvious in direct light, so I’d rather it just not be there at all.

This formula lasts on my skin for a good portion of the day in most cases, and it dries down, but it isn’t transfer-proof. If I touch it, I see a lot of shimmer on my finger and a little bit of the base color. Setting it with powder changes nothing.

According to retail websites, this product “can be used all over the face for added warmth,” or mixed into moisturizer, sunscreen, or primer for a glowy base. I figured if it can be mixed into products and used all over the face, then surely it can be mixed into foundation. It looked so pretty at first, but then I looked closer and noticed all the tiny random sparkle particles all over my face. So, that was an absolute no-go. In the up close picture, there’s one right near the center of the underside of my nose, in the cheek area in and next to my pores (though camouflaged a little by the light illuminating my skin there), and a few diagonally between my nose and the deep smile line by my mouth.

I thought perhaps it would be possible to mix it into a foundation that’s too light in order to deepen it up slightly, but there’s so little pigment in this, that although it looked like it darkens at first, the moment it dries down, it basically returns to the same color it was originally, just slightly more warm-olive in tone. I tried to do this with a few other foundations and it didn’t matter. They all barely changed in color, even though I used a much bigger portion of bronzer than the single pump of foundation.

As a bronzer, I like this for minimal makeup days. For any other use, it just doesn’t work for me. Because it’s not very successful in living up to all the claims, and considering the price, this isn’t the Armani product I recommend to others.

Rare Beauty Warm Wishes Effortless Bronzer Stick in Full of Life

This is one of the most hyped up bronzers, but I usually hate stick products since they’re a firmer texture and tend to dry out faster than pot creams. It was a little easier to ignore the hype since the closest depth match for me was True Warmth, which looked way too red for my liking. After they extended the range and I saw Full of Life looking a lot more neutral by comparison and described as “deep bronze with golden undertones,” I bought it without hesitation. Imagine my surprise when I saw how warm this one was too! However, when I blend it out, it somehow matches me so well and I can easily get it to look even more natural and subtle when I use less than the amount pictured below. Unlike many stick products I’ve used in the past, this one isn’t stiff and practically melts as I glide it along my face. I typically draw a stroke that’s the length of my ear and blend that out dragging it slightly lower under my cheekbone. I also draw from the center of my forehead to about where my brow tail is and blend the rest of it out and connect it to the rest by the ear. I add a little more after blending if needed and it doesn’t disturb my makeup underneath. If I want it to last on my skin, I have to apply it a little more generously since my skin likes to absorb some of it. It makes me very happy though that even though the formula feels creamy, it fully sets on my skin and I don’t get an imprint on my finger when I touch it. This looks so natural, and I finish bronzing so quickly, that I now understand the hype. It’s well deserved. If my year late low-buy series has taught me anything though, it’s that cream products could take six or more months to start behaving differently, like a film forming on top or it drying out. So, I am curious to see if this continues to perform well as time goes on.

Milk Makeup Matte Bronzer Cream Stick in Blitzed

After unscrewing the cap, be careful removing the plastic dome off the stick portion. I saw a lot of creators break theirs in their videos, so I was trying to be careful removing mine, but a chunk still broke off since it was stuck too tightly to the plastic.

I had a feeling Blitzed would be too deep for me, but I wasn’t sure if Blaze would be too light. I can get Blitzed to work if I blend it out very well, and the amount used in the photo is about what I use per side, though maybe a little less in the cheekbone portion to start off with. It can easily get out of hand if I’m not careful.

This bronzer is the perfect example of the type of stick products I don’t like since it’s stiff, doesn’t blend as easily as traditional creams, and can be a little patchy looking at times. I like that it’s more of a neutral color by comparison to my shade from Rare Beauty, but I’m just not a fan of this formula.

Also, it’s a bit funny that I avoided buying this bronzer when the full-size used to be 1 oz / 28 g because I knew I’d never use it up and didn’t want it to go to waste. Then, they came out with minis that I believe were either $18 or $20 for 0.19 oz / 5.7g but they did not have my shade. Then when Blaze was available as a mini, I still felt the price per grams were so bad by comparison that I wanted to wait for a sale. Instead, I got the surprise that Milk decided to make the previous mini-size the new full-size, yet they did not adjust the price. It’s now $24 for 0.19 ounces. I don’t mind having less product, but to pass the cost onto the customer and not adjust the price accordingly for getting less product isn’t very cool in my books. Especially since Blitzed was released this year and only ever released in this tinier size.
I waited years for a better price, so I figured I may as well keep waiting. Then there eventually came an opportune time to get it during a SpaceNK sale.

This was like THE bronzer stick before Rare Beauty came along. This was people’s holy grail bronzer for years, but considering the texture and the way it blends, I don’t see why. It has slightly more lasting power since the thicker and less emollient consistency keeps it from sliding off or moving, the way other cream bronzers can, though I don’t have this problem with Rare Beauty either.

The Better Butter Bronzer?

Westman Atelier Beauty Butter Powder Bronzer in Beau Soleil

Even though I purchased this during a Credo Beauty sale, it’s still the most expensive single bronzer in my collection (since the Hermes Bronzer was only the refill). I heard great things about the formula, but I was never interested until they added this deeper shade to the line.

The bronzer is small, but its packaging is so heavy! Between the weighted metal, shiny gold surface, and the dust pouch it came with, it feels very luxurious. I also like the cute heart pattern with the “W A” representing the brand’s initials on the product surface.

Beau Soleil is definitely not as deep or neutral as it looks in photos. It’s also not heavily pigmented, so I still have to build it up. I like the color, but it’s unfortunate that they don’t have a rich shade available for those with skin tones darker than mine. In fact, it’s a little difficult to see in my photos, but it’s at least present (still subtle) in person. I believe the original two bronzers launched over two years ago. I’m glad we got this one this year, but I hope there will be another shade expansion sooner than that.

The photo on the right was digitally adjusted to improve the color accuracy.

The texture is buttery, as the name implies, and smooth. Of course, because of the name I couldn’t help but think about the famous Physician’s Formula Butter Bronzer. I disliked that one immensely because it was overly shimmery for my taste, which is a shame since it had a nice texture. The Westman Atelier bronzer is actually matte. It has a sheen that isn’t in a shimmery way, but in a moisturized way. The best way I can describe the look is like when the skin’s natural oils show the tiniest sign of coming through a powdered face. It isn’t to the level of being glowy or shiny, but resembles slightly moisturized skin. Another way to describe it is the look of skin after spraying one’s face with MAC Fix+ once it dries back down. The bronzer looks great when I use my medium density brushes, but if I try to use something that’s lightly packed it can look uneven. Due to the nature of it having this texture, the pigment packs more heavily in some places if the brush bristles aren’t strong enough to move it smoothly across the skin efficiently enough. But all it takes is more time buffing, a slightly denser brush, or a more resilient bristle to smooth it out.

This product is up there with some of my more enjoyable bronzers like Nars, Mented, and Pat Mcgrath. I definitely think it’s good, but the bigger selling point is the packaging. If this bronzer was in MAC packaging instead, I’d have said this is way overpriced. However, I bought this specifically during a time when I wanted something that was undeniably in the luxury category with a formula that was at least “good.” So, I’m satisfied with what I got.

Reformulated or Just Repackaged?

Kosas Sun Show Baked Bronzer in Escape and Paradise

The original Kosas bronzer was in my top 3 favorite formulas for many years, only recently dropping slightly lower because the shade became too dark for my liking, it had a smell that couldn’t be ignored, and the reputation keeps growing about the brand’s products going bad quickly (which made me question whether mine was still safe to use). Until recently, this bronzer was my #1 favorite in the shimmer finish category.

The brand posted on the product page, “new packaging…same formula,” but I believe there is something off about the shimmer. Every time I’ve compared the new ones to my old one, the new ones look like there’s way more shimmer and reflects more strongly. Escape and Paradise look borderline metallic in direct light. Perhaps it’s just something to do with the shimmer color with Deep and its orange base tone compared to the golden tone of Escape or the red tone of Paradise, but the bottom line is that I don’t like the finish of the new ones at all compared to the old one. It’s too much for me. It sounds wild to say considering I’m in my glowy cheek era for blushes, but I’m not usually a fan of metallic blushes either.

One of the other unfortunate things is that I’ve been wishing for Kosas to expand the line and make something slightly lighter than Deep, which was previously their darkest one. I was thrilled to see they added an even darker bronzer called Tropic and hoped that meant Paradise would be slightly lighter than Deep, but it’s slightly darker instead and in a less flattering undertone for me. Escape is less than a half shade darker than me and basically worked to add a golden glow, but not actually bronze me. However, it does seem to have gotten a little more orange several months after purchasing. My solution in the beginning was mixing the two new shades together, so I can’t say that didn’t effect the color Escape turned into now. Even though I have a workable color, the shine is a bit offputting. I spend quite a bit of time buffing the product in to try and get some of that shimmer off my face. At this point, I don’t know if I kept them because I genuinely liked them enough to not be worth returning, or if it’s the nostalgia and my desire to find a worthy replacement for Deep. It’s such a shame because the formula of the original truly is fantastic, beautiful, and I couldn’t recommend it enough to those who could get past the frying oil smell. The new ones don’t smell of it as strongly, but I can definitely still detect it. Perhaps it’s the Meadowfoam Seed Oil and/or Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil which are listed as the second and third ingredients.

So, after all this, Deep is still the best shade for me, but I can’t trust using it anymore because it’s so old and the brand doesn’t seem to like preservatives. So, I will make do with the two new ones for now. This could be something to take a chance on for those that love a super glowy bronzer, baked formulas, and “clean” makeup. It performs the same as the old one, which was so blendable and smooth. However, my personal disappointment keeps me from being able to recommend it.

BONUS REVIEWS

When it comes to the Vieve and Victoria Beckham duos, I forgot to include them in my previous bronzer ranking because they were in my face palette drawer and I also hadn’t decided which one I liked more. So, even though they aren’t 2023 releases, I thought I should try to include them in the bonus section. Also, kudos to both brands for making their duos refillable/replacable.

Vieve Modern Bronzer Duo in Deep

The left powder is intended to add warmth, while the right powder is for sculpting. The latter is a bit too deep, so I use the lighter shade in the duo almost exclusively. That one is my kind of color, though a little bit strong on the orange tone. The performance and texture reminds me of Charlotte’s bronzer, but not quite to that level of looking airbrushed. This is a buildable formula that I was surprised to see described as “satin” on the website, but I can agree it has a natural finish. I’m very pleased with this duo, but longevity is the only issue. If I’m wearing a dewy foundation or my skin has been properly primed and moisturized, the bronzer lasts. Sometimes it sticks a little too well and requires more blending time. Conversely, if my skin is on the dry side, it doesn’t cling to my skin as well and will come off in spots at some point in the day. This normally isn’t a problem for me except on minimal makeup days where I tend to skip a lot more steps in my routine.

I also have to note that I’m impressed with the packaging. It’s a lightweight plastic, but it still looks like an upgrade compared to the cardboard blush compacts. The extra bits of gold color on the back side and around the edges of the duo really help to elevate the packaging. However, I’m guessing the reason the blush compacts aren’t plastic is because they’re not refillable, unlike the powder bronzers.

In the photo with both sides listed, I started to rub away the lighter one before I thought about how I could probably leave it there for comparison purposes. So, I labeled it mainly to indicate that what’s lingering is the Vieve bronzer on the left side of the duo and I did not apply the right one to both spots. The demonstration under the cheekbone was applied with the amount picked from a single tap into the powder with a brush and blended out a lot, which still looked dramatic enough to feel it wasn’t necessary to apply it to my forehead too.

A month or so ago, Vieve released cream bronzers. I’m curious about them, but I recently put myself on a cream product no-buy, so I guess I won’t be finding out what they’re like for a very long time.

Victoria Beckham Matte Bronzing Brick in 05

I couldn’t figure out whether I should get 04 or 05, but I’m glad I chose the darkest one because this isn’t as deep as I anticipated. The lighter shade is a bit subtle for me and the darker one is a bit too red (even though that’s supposed to be the sculpting shade). So, once again, I end up mixing them both together to create a golden-orange color. And it ends up looking quite similar to the lighter shade from Vieve’s Deep duo.

Full disclosure is that I bought this from a third party seller in new/unused condition, so technically I can’t verify the authenticity of the product. I strongly believe it is authentic though based on how weighty the packaging is, the product performance, and all labeling including the box it came in, all compared to photos I’ve seen online. I am super impressed with the compact and it being as lux as I’ve heard described by others. This bronzer is similar to Vieve’s but the powder feels a little more fine, and it also gives me no issues blending or with longevity regardless of the condition of my skin. It’s the closest comparison I’ve found to Charlotte Tilbury’s powder bronzer with how airbrushed it looks on the face, the way it gets picked up with my brushes, and the texture of the powder. My one complaint is that certain spots look like hard-pan is starting to form. I assume it’s from the increased frequency that I’m using oil based products as primer. So, I wonder if people with oily skin will have a problem with hard-pan after extended use.

Dior Forever Natural Bronzer in 07 and 08

I put this in the bonus section because I got these from a third party seller and had no intention of reviewing them until I realized how high they ranked among my collection, and that I should share this information. Even though these aren’t new, a few shades from the line were re-released in new limited edition packaging this year. I preferred the look of the original quilt pattern ones and it occurred to me that Dior might reformulate them as they have for nearly everything else that’s a permanent product. So, I tried to get them while I had the chance, even though I was still uncertain if 07 was going to be too light and 08 too dark. As expected, 07 is so close to my skin tone that I could literally (and have a few times) use this as an all-over face powder. It matches my undertone so well, it’s a shame there isn’t an in-between shade that’s this color but just a shade or two deeper. As for 08, it’s darker than I prefer, but I just have to use it sparingly. It’s also a neutral color, which I don’t mind if I want to look like I got darker from the sun, but I don’t look bronzed without that warm undertone. It has a slight sculpting effect, so I like to use it almost the same way as Nars, but in reverse because 07 isn’t pigmented enough to lighten up 08 if 08 is underneath. I apply a liberal layer of 07 first and then a sheer amount of 08 so that I get the benefits of slightly deepening what I laid already down. This creates a pretty shading effect on the face.

This bronzer reminds me of the Nars ones, but even softer. I really like it, but not enough to pay full price. If I couldn’t have gotten it elsewhere and had to choose between Nars and Dior, I would feel Nars is more worth the price. The Dior bronzer comes in what I consider to be a cuter compact, but I’d rather pay a little more and just get Charlotte’s bronzer instead.

This photo was adjusted to improve color accuracy.

RANKING AMONG THE BRONZERS IN THIS POST

  1. Hermès Plein Air Mineral Powder
  2. Victoria Beckham Matte Bronzing Brick
  3. Rare Beauty Bronzer Stick
  4. Vieve Modern Bronzer Duo
  5. Dior Forever Natural Bronzer
  6. Westman Atelier Butter Powder Bronzer
  7. Nars Laguna Talc-Free Bronzing Powders
  8. Pat Mcgrath Divine Powder Bronzers
  9. MAC Sunstruck Bronzer (Matte)
  10. Armani Luminous Silk Bronzer Drops
  11. MAC Sunstruck Bronzer (Radiant)
  12. Kosas Baked Bronzer (Yellow Packaging)
  13. Milk Makeup Matte Bronzer Stick

Although I feel it’s too soon for me to rank these with the rest of my collection, I can at least say with certainty that my first three here would make the top 10, knocking Nabla, Mented, and Covergirl lower. Four through eight here could potentially knock those three even lower.

It’s easy to say the Hermes is my top “standard” powder formula, GloWish is the top with a sheen (performs like a baked gelee but I have no idea what it technically is), and Charlotte makes my top cream formula. However, deciding between the three where they rank is too difficult to say with full confidence. The one from Victoria Beckham comes just after Charlotte’s Powder bronzer, (so basically fifth place). I mentioned in last week’s post that Colourpop’s bronzer would drop lower since it started to perform differently at the one year mark of opening it. I still don’t know what place that put’s Colourpop now, but I know that ABH’s cream bronzer moved above it. Between ABH and the Rare Beauty Stick, I cannot make a decision without seeing how Rare Beauty performs in the long term of at least one year too.

So, that is everything! While it’s true I technically have more bronzers in my collection if one counts my face palettes too, I just don’t use the bronzers in there enough for it to be fair to include them. The only ones I can think of that could significantly shake up this list is the Hourglass Ambient Lighting Finishing Powder I use as bronzer (Transcendent Light) and the Captivate bronzer from Sephora’s Microsmooth Multi-Tasking Baked Face Palette. Those two would be somewhere between 15-25, but that’s as far as I could narrow it down.

Thank you for reading! Again, apologies for needing to switch now to my cell phone camera. I’m still trying to figure out the settings, color, and lighting.

-Lili

Valentino, RMS, Real Techniques, and Other July ’22 Purchases Reviewed

To clear up any confusion for those visiting this blog for the first time, I started a project in 2022 to review everything I bought per month in one gigantic post. It was supposed to be part of my low-buy series, but I bought too many things, so it was impossible to keep up with considering I do more in-depth reviews and not first impressions. I haven’t given up on the project though, despite it being a year late.

Tarte Maracuja Juicy Glow in Golden Glow

Tarte has had major hits with their Maracuja line in recent years. I bought this product with the highest of hopes, but this just doesn’t work for me. The base color of Golden Glow is perfect, but the shimmer particles reflect such a pale color. I don’t think buying Bronze Glow, the darkest one available, would change this issue.

The second problem I have is that this lifts up my concealers underneath, particularly the more lightweight liquid ones like KVD Good Apple. I have to do this song and dance with adding concealer or foundation back over the bald spots in layers to cover up what gets removed, and it needs to be covered because the darkness under my eyes extends to that spot and can be seen through it. I’ve tried using my fingers, brushes, a sponge, different brush bristle types, various brush head shapes, picking up product directly from the tube and not swiping it on, warming it up first, etc. Nothing works other than layering product on top, and even that doesn’t look the best.

The final straw is the fact that this product stays creamy. It “sets” but transfers easily even if powdered. It can at least stay on my cheeks for a long time if I don’t touch my face, but the shine always dulls down. As many times as I’ve tried to get it to work for me it just doesn’t. It’s an absolute fail and now that I’ve finally completed this review, it’s going out of my collection. I usually love the same highlighters as Angelica Nyqvist, but I guess our different skin tones and skin types had a huge effect in getting a different experience in this instance.

Jaclyn Cosmetics Sun Bathe Pressed Bronzer in Buns Out and Bare Babe

*Note: Several days before this was scheduled to post, I found out that apparently Jaclyn is closing her two brands. Ignoring what she claims are her reasons, whether this is actually due to avoiding legal issues between herself and the jewelry brands whose designs she was “inspired” by or the public’s knowledge that identical lounge items were pre-existing on websites like Aliexpress and Alibaba prior to her own launches is unknown. As for the fate of Jaclyn Cosmetics, that’s entirely up to the actual owners to decide). I will not be editing or altering what I originally wrote in the review portion, but I wanted to at least address the fact that I know she’s closing her brands and it changes nothing about what I’ve written below.


This is going to be the last product from Jaclyn Cosmetics that gets reviewed on my blog. I’ve discussed my feelings about Jaclyn’s mishaps from the early days already when reviewing the Bronze & Blushing Duo, and explained why I didn’t cut off the brand entirely once they got into Ulta and proved they could make decent products when they weren’t cutting corners. However, to find out through the Forma brand’s financial troubles and court documents (which are available to the public) that Jaclyn was no more than a “collaborator” with zero stakes in the company was it for me. The woman just never stops lying! After making my decision, it certainly didn’t help that Jaclyn realigned herself with problematic Influencers and refuses to own up to anything, including doubling down on the revisionist history of “lipstick-gate.” This, and Jaclyn’s remorseless indirect role in the closing shop of All Things Koze left me feeling absolutely disgusted with her. I’ve never been a Jaclyn hater, but after so much new information came to light, I’m no longer neutral towards her and will not be purchasing anything else from the brand. Conveniently, this bronzer is the last item of hers I’ve yet to review and also the last thing I bought from the brand since a year ago.

So, to those actually wondering whether these bronzers are good or not, they actually are. It made top ten of my powder formulas, specifically, in my most recent Bronzer Ranking post from a few months ago. However, if I included bronzers purchased from this year too, it would have dropped quite a few places lower, and especially if cream rankings are factored in.

What I like is that it’s a soft nearly-silky powder that I can pick up the perfect amount with my brushes and get little to no kickup. It’s pigmented. It has all-day wear. It’s matte, but leaves a skin-like finish. The reason I don’t rate it even higher is because it’s not on the level of baked gelee ones with their sheen. Among the traditional powders, I also find that Mented and Charlotte Tilbury’s bronzers are even easier to blend. Those facts don’t take away from how nicely these bronzers perform and that there are more shade options in Jaclyn’s line than either of those.

When I use one shade alone, it looks great. However, any time I try to mix both Jaclyn colors together, it doesn’t look as nice as I want because this is the type of bronzer that sticks to the skin first and then can be buffed out to a smoother more even appearance. When two different colors stick in different places, it can lead to that more uneven look unless I put a lot more blending effort into it. So, it’s better if I just end up using Buns Out (the more orange toned bronzer) by itself or Bare Babe (the neutral/red leaning one) by itself. Between the two colors, I prefer Buns Out. The new talc-free Nars bronzers are an example of a formula that I can blend two shades beautifully together. Plus, Nars now has nearly the same amount of shades as Jaclyn (9 versus 10). It’s $8 more expensive, but there are options for minis which are naturally a lower price. Ulta occasionally has Jaclyn Cosmetics items on sale for 30-50% off, so if there was ever a time to buy it, it would be during one of those sales.

The brand tries to sell the idea of their products being high end or luxury quality at more affordable prices (and by affordable they mean mid-tier range). The luxury part is subjective, so I’m not going to say anything about that. However, their $32 pricing puts it on par with brands like Fenty, Makeup by Mario, Too Faced, and Tarte. I do find the Jaclyn bronzer performance to be better than those, so kudos to them. The bottom line is that the bronzers are good, but there are plenty that are still better, though for a higher price among the powder formulas in most cases.

Two things that could make or break these bronzers for some people are the fragrance and packaging. This thing is heavily scented! I’ve heard it’s supposed to smell like “toffee,” but mine smell like coffee. It’s the type of makeup that I can actually still smell on my face for a while after putting it on. It’s not a bad smell, but I would definitely prefer if it wasn’t there because of how strong it is and me not being that much of a coffee fan.

The packaging, especially compared to the pan size, is bulky. I know there have been a ton of complaints about the raised “J” on the lid which prevents it from being stackable on top. I keep most of my single bronzers in acrylic compact organizers, so that isn’t as much of a problem for me. I just don’t like the overall size of it being wider and thicker than everything else. Then again, it has a fully wide mirror inside (one that I don’t use), which could be considered worth the bigger packaging size for some people.

I like this bronzer enough to keep Buns Out, but I’m going to declutter Bare Babe. However, I don’t know how much use I’ll even still get out of this considering how much I’m really loving my current top 10.

M·A·C X STRANGER THINGS Powder Blush in He Likes It Cold

I ended up reviewing this in a MAC round-up post HERE, but I forgot about that. So, not only did I take another photo wearing it within the past few months, I also found an older photo with it on as well (and built up). It’s limited edition and was gone from all retailers, but last month it briefly made its return to the Goodbyes/Last Chance section on MAC’s US website. Perhaps it could still be found in stores with discounted makeup, such as T.J.Maxx or CCS/CCO’s.

rms beauty “Re” Dimension Hydra Powder Blush in Sangria (and in the future Maiden’s Blush)

For some very strange reason I haven’t figured out, I did not like this blush for a long time! I tried it 4-5 times within the first five months before giving up on it. It’s only when Sephora put the blushes on sale for $22 at the end of June ’23 that I decided to give Sangria, the only shade I had at the time, one more try. And it was beautiful! I don’t know if it just took time for me to get past the top layer, or I was using different brushes, or my skin being less dry now due to the products I’m using caused an improvement in how it appears on my skin. Whatever the reason, it now looks much better on me.

It looks like it will be extra shimmery in the pan, but it’s like a combination of both shimmer and sheen to create that glow on the skin. Sangria is particularly pigmented, but I consider this a buildable formula and enjoy using my goat hair brushes to buff it into the skin. Maiden’s Blush, however, is either too brown or not pigmented enough in base color to show up on me. It’s similar to Suqqu’s Kafuu blush, but at least that one shows in person. However, the sheerness of this color works to my benefit in now having the perfect blush topper to layer over a matte blush that I want to turn into a shimmery one without effecting the color. It works amazingly for that and without a metallic looking reflect either. The radiance is softer and not texture enhancing on me. It also has good longevity as long as I don’t touch my cheeks too much.

I like that the compacts are refillable. It’s a little bulky in terms of thickness, but it’s smaller in width than most of my other blushes, plus it does include a mirror.

As much as I like this blush now, it’s not to the extreme that I hear others talk about them as though they’re the best shimmery blushes on the market. The original/discontinued Oden’s Eye, MAC Extra Dimension, BareMinerals Blonzer, and Nabla Skin Glazing blushes all top it (though it reminds me the most of Nabla’s texture and finish). I need more time to compare them, but I might like this more than the Gucci Luminous Matte blushes, which are also over-hyped. They’re good, but not “holy grail” type of good to me.

VALENTINO BEAUTY Eye2Cheek Blush & Eye Color in 05 and 07 (and in the future 112 Copper Twilight)

I’ve had the opposite experience of the Rms blushes with these from Valentino. I liked them initially, and the blushes were super creamy feeling for a powder. They were still that way by the time the limited edition shades were released around the holidays last year. But when I used 05 and 07 again between the 6-8 months time frame of having it, I noticed the texture felt a bit different. Then I started using them again more recently and confirmed it’s definitely more dry than it was in the beginning, which makes it harder to blend in an even layer with some parts wetter than others. It’s not a matter of it being dried out. It’s still soft to the touch, but it’s drier than before. I can’t even use my goat hair brushes with them anymore because the pigment gets picked up by the hair and now clings to it so strongly that I struggle getting it off the brush hair and onto my cheeks. So, I’ve switched to using synthetic bristles, but it’s still a bit of effort to work in. They look great on the cheeks and have a very natural look on the skin, but it went from being top tier performance for blendability, finish, and ease of use to being good. I’m satisfied with that, but I have to acknowledge the decline exists.

These blushes were $39 via Selfridges and $48 at US retailers, however the price has gone up now to $52 in the US and I haven’t seen them return to Selfridges after being on sale recently for $26. I don’t know if that means they’re being discontinued there or just purely out of stock. The blushes are supposed to be good for up to 24 months after being opened, but I would not be surprised if it continues to decline over time. With these being so expensive, I thought it was important to note this possibility. As it stands, I still like them, but I can’t recommend them at full price. Not when I love my Suqqu Melting Powder blushes and Armani Neo Nude Color Balms even more.

The brush that comes with the compact works surprisingly well, but because it’s so tiny to hold in my large fingers, I don’t enjoy using it. The red and gold plastic standard packaging looks pretty and lux to me, but it feels incredibly cheap when held because it’s so lightweight. The Suqqu ones are pretty light too, but they succeeded in making it look sleek and chic despite how compact in size the compact is. The Valentino pan size being small, and the rounded top being large because it has to hold the brush, makes it feel unnecessarily big. But, I guess the theme today is that compacts with mirrors are going to be thicker than I want (likely to prevent breakage). Then again, the Suqqu ones have mirrors too.
The Valentino black and gold limited edition compacts with the pointed stud looking “V” logo looks way more fancy to me, enough to forgive the light plastic. I love it! I wish the black/gold packaging was the standard one instead.

As for the Copper Twilight shade, I can only use it as a highlighter, which I don’t mind. It looks smooth and beautiful, but my skin just absorbs it. It’s always gone after several hours wearing it. The other blushes fade, but not at that rate. It might be because I pack so much on my cheeks, unlike the highlighter which I usually apply in as thin of a layer as possible. So, I only wear this in photos and not for going on long outings.

Suqqu AW22 Collection – The items I bought from this collection were reviewed HERE. My favorite one is the 132 Momijigari Pure Color Blush. Suqqu does blushes extremely well, so it’s not surprising. On the other hand, I haven’t used the eyeshadow quads enough to say those were worth me buying, but if I haven’t used them enough in a year, the answer is probably no.
It’s not a matter of quality, but eyeshadow preferences.

Colourpop Super Shock Bronzer in Dream Vacay and Paradise City – I first reviewed these bronzers in my Catching Up With Colourpop Halloween post, and I stand by my review. They are fantastic and made it into my top 3 bronzer formulas and top 10 overall in my Bronzer Ranking post. If I wasn’t concentrating on Charlotte Tilbury’s Cream Bronzer as an unofficial project pan item, I’d have probably finished Dream Vacay by now. As it stands, I hit pan on that shade, my first time ever hitting pan on a product!

However, towards the end of July, I started to have a hard time getting the product to get off my brush bristles and onto my face instead. This happens with my synthetic brushes and beloved Sonia G Mini Base. It’s like I’m picking up more of the emollient agent and less of the pigment. I’m not sure how else to describe seeing the shine, but lack of color on my skin (including the deeper shade) unless I spend quite a long time dipping back repeatedly into the container. This problem started at nearly the one year mark, which in my books is an acceptable amount of time to have a cream product work well. At only $9, this is something I can easily replace and would be willing to on a yearly basis. However, I will not do that while I still have my top cream bronzer, the one from Charlotte Tilbury, still going strong.

Good Molecules Yerba Mate Wake Up Eye Gel– I assume I bought this to reach a free shipping minimum at Ulta, combined with my curiosity for the Good Molecules brand. In the past year, I’ve used it less than a handful of times. About a month prior to completing this post, I considered starting a consistent testing period, but after using it a few more times I decided I would rather test other under-eye products instead. The Yerba Eye Gel is supposed to “fight oxidative damage.” According to symptoms listed on Google, I don’t think I have that. It’s also supposed to be soothing for puffy eyes, whereas I have the opposite issue with eye hollows. While I could certainly use the brightening and radiance effect that supposedly comes from the antioxidants and polyphenols from the yerba mate extract, I would rather try products specifically listed to target dark under eye circles, boost collagen production, or deal with my specific biggest issues for extended testing instead. So, I can’t give this one a proper review.

Real Techniques Enchanted Brushes and Sculpt Contour Brush

I’m not sure how the handle design relates to fairies or magic. My first thought upon seeing those tips specifically is that they look like the mini twist bulbs that I’ve only ever seen on ceramic Christmas Trees.

Real Techniques is capable of making sturdy, highly functional brushes, as well as some duds. Unfortunately for me, this is more of a novelty product than a high quality one. The bristles are quite plastic feeling and the only one that’s dense instead of floppy or airy is the concealer brush. This was a limited edition set, so I don’t have to worry about anyone getting this when there are better brushes available instead.

The Foundation brush isn’t flimsy, per say, but it bends deeply. I can also see visible brush strokes on my face when I use it, so I have to go back over the area a few times to smooth it out.

Instead of using it for foundation, it works better as a slanted liquid and cream blush brush, but only if I don’t care about precision due to the large splay, and the fact that it really sheers out my cheek products. I have to use almost double the amount to get my normal amount of coverage in the case of liquids.

My favorite use for this is with cream-to-powder and baked gelee blush formulas, since the bristles easily pick up so much of the powder product at once, and I can complete my task quicker than if I’d used another brush. The issues I have with it for foundation purposes aren’t a problem with these type of blushes.

The contour brush gets the job done, but it folds easily under pressure, so I have to use firm but short strokes to keep the bristles together when trying to blend cream and liquid products. This brush would have been better if the bristles were shorter and bound more tightly, to allow for stronger buffing power. As it stands, I prefer using this with powder blushes since it doesn’t come to a sharp enough angle for my taste for contouring and bronzing. As a blush brush, it’s like having a knockoff version of the Sonia G Lotus Face Detail brush as a last resort backup.

I’ve had the original setting brush, the newer (full aluminum no rubber) version, and now this one. The original has been my holy grail for setting under my eyes for so many years now, and even the new handle version, but this is one is horrendous. The splay is so much wider, looser, and haphazardly bundled which makes it visibly asymmetrical.

The setting powder applies to a wider area than I prefer, and feels pokey getting in various crevices, so this brush is more suited for me as a dusting brush to sweep away fallout. It’s useful for someone who does the baking technique, which I don’t. The best purpose I’ve found for it is as a highlighter brush, but it’s not as pleasant to use as my favorites. Essentially, it’s another last resort brush, but as a poor imitation of itself.

As seen in the photo, the ferrule got detached from the base during the very first wash. I was holding it in the spot where the ferrule meets the brush head and was squeezing the water out of the bristles and apparently squeezed and tugged too roughly. I didn’t bother to glue it back down because this entire brush set is just going to be set up in a corner looking debatably pretty in my “Cup of Alternative Brushes” reserved for the time I have no clean brushes to use, but deep down I know I will never actually get to them because I’d rather go wash my favorites than have to use the subpar ones.

Funny enough, this is actually the best brush in the set and I would actually use it if it didn’t stand out like a sore thumb by itself. I’d rather keep the set together on display than to use it. In any case, this brush is dense and spreads my Givenchy concealer very well and applies concealer and eyeshadow primer evenly. It does a nice job creating an even layer of cream shadows and decently packs on powder eyeshadows. It’s like a stiffer, but fully synthetic version of the Sonia G Jumbo Concealer brush. I don’t know if Real Techniques has a brush like this in the permanent line, but they should. It’s a good one.

I apologize to the Real Techniques fans for not sugar coating my thoughts on this set. The higher my expectations, the more disappointed I am when it doesn’t live up to it. I know the brand is capable of making better brushes, and in fact, I have plans to review the other brushes I’ve purchased since getting this set. Spoiler alert: I like some of those a lot more! That future review is where the Sculpt Contour Brush will be instead of here. However, I don’t know when exactly that will happen (weeks or months). I’m working on so many different posts all at once. So, be sure to click follow to be emailed whenever I publish something new!

Edit: I finished that Real Techniques post and the link is in blue above.

Smashbox Brush Haul: Blurring Concealer, Precise Cheek, Blurring Foundation, and Full Coverage Foundation

This is my second time reviewing the current line of Smashbox brushes. In 2021, I said I didn’t think I would purchase anymore unless they released a new style. I actually do believe I’ve gotten all the ones that appeal to me this time, and will therefore have nothing left to buy unless they release new shapes.

I’d like to address the fact that even though all four brushes were purchased at the same time from the official Smashbox website, the Precision Cheek has a brighter red handle than the rest. The only other time I’d seen a brighter red was a decade ago before Smashbox revamped the brush line to go fully synthetic. It was their brushes sold in the cheaper travel sets with plastic handles that were brighter red, though not even to this almost neon red level.

I remembered my previous customer service interaction with Smashbox in 2015 when I asked them what type of natural hair they used in their original brushes. Back then, they were transparent with me and still had the information, even though it was about discontinued items. So, I thought it was worth a try to contact their customer service again, regardless of the fact that I bought these a year ago and the bright red could have been a temporary thing. The initial rep didn’t have the information, but gave me their global Consumer Care email. After writing to them, I got a response informing me that my email was received, and less than two hours later I got the official answer. “We would like to confirm that our brush collection was being transitioned to the bright red handle, including the Precision Blush Brush. However, not all brushes were fully transitioned, therefore there is currently a mix of dark red and bright red handles.”

I wrote to them a week prior to this post, expecting it would take that long to get a reply of any kind, so I’m glad Smashbox reps could give me at least more information than I had before, and so quickly too. The “was” and “were” makes it sound as though they were in the process of switching to the bright red at least a year ago when I bought them, but for whatever reason stopped. And apparently if anyone purchases online today, it’s still unknown which color handle they’ll get.

This brush is on the lighter side of medium density, but it doesn’t splay as wide as I feared, so I can still use it precisely. The bristles are instead flexible, and supposed to create a diffused blurred look that way. To be honest, I don’t notice very much diffusing to the point of looking airbrushed like it’s supposed to do (probably due to using such full coverage concealers), but that’s a good thing for me. I prefer to use a small but concentrated amount of concealer to fully cover my areas of skin discoloration. This disperses the product evenly. It also works well for adding primer and cream eyeshadow. I recommend this brush, but only on sale purely because it’s not hard to find brushes that perform exactly like this. For instance, my old Amazon brush set (no longer available via that seller) I’ve had since 2015 came with a similarly shaped brush that ended up being worth less than $1 each. The difference being the Smashbox bristles are a little softer/plush feeling, but not as big of a softness difference as one might expect.

At the $17 price I paid for this Smashbox one, it doesn’t seem worth it by comparison. However, you never really know what quality synthetic hair you’re getting when you order generic sets online. Even the one I bought had a stronger gold tone ferrule in person and didn’t have any logos on the handles, unlike the photo. I only kept 2 or 3 of them and gave the rest away. The one I actively still use from this set, I only use with eye primer because the Sonia G Jumbo Concealer is just the best of all that I have, even if some of the other concealer brushes I own still get the job done well.
In my early beauty hunting days, I purchased several bargain brushes that ended up being unusable. So, something can be said about the security of knowing when you purchase from a long standing brand, there’s a much higher chance for the quality to be there. Even the RT Deluxe Crease Brush performs the same as the Smashbox one, but it’s much more dense and I use it for stickier products like the Smashbox x Becca Under Eye Brightener. The bottom line is this Smashbox brush is good, but there are plenty of alternatives for less. I still don’t mind having it for the half off price that I paid. And at least I haven’t had to deal with the aluminum parts detaching like I do with my generic ones and the RT ones too.

This brush has a very interesting shape that appears from the front like a normal domed head, but it comes to a flat angled point on both sides from the middle to tip. If I use this with bronzer or a sculpting blush, I can put the product on one of those edges and it will fit into the cheek hollows giving me the crisp, but not too sharp, edge that I want.

Although one doesn’t need to use this brush exclusively with cream and liquid products, my natural hair cheek brushes are my favorite type to buy out of everything in the Fude world. So, there’s no way I would choose this or any synthetic one over my natural ones. The only time I use this brush with powder blush is if the powder blush formula is firmly pressed or very sheer and I don’t want to spend time trying to build it up. There aren’t many of those types of blushes in my collection that need something stronger than goat, so that doesn’t happen very often. With cream and liquid blushes, again, I like this for the precision factor and the denseness preventing the product from being sheered out too much. However, since I also have a lot more fusion goat/synthetic mix brushes now, I don’t get much use out of this brush, but I’m glad I have it for those uncommon situations when it’s needed.

This head shape used to be a lot more unique. I have some like it among my fude, but I’m unaware of any dupes among the synthetic brush brands, so this might still be a brush worth looking into for the synthetic bristle lovers. Especially if Smashbox is running another of their promotions for 50% off brushes.

Since I’m reviewing two different foundation brushes from the same line, it makes more sense to me to compare them so someone can decide which of the two they prefer. For starters though, I have to admit my preference for synthetic brushes are the soft plush dense ones, so these are naturally the Smashbox brushes most worth the purchase in my eyes. The Blurring Foundation brush is less dense of the two, with more give under pressure, but the splay is just enough necessary to produce a diffused look. Unlike the Blurring Concealer brush, I can actually see the diffusing effect in this one. It should be noted that most of my foundations are medium buildable coverage. The perk of using the Blurring Foundation brush is that it gives me a streak-free, very natural skin-like finish at the cost of losing a small amount of coverage. I like the end result for everyday use, but not in situations where I’m taking photos and would want more coverage. This also makes a nice cream and liquid blush brush, which I mostly use this for now instead of foundation.

The Full Coverage Foundation brush does allow one to keep the maximum coverage a foundation will allow. I’ve always been impressed with the light/buildble coverage I get from the Rose Inc Tinted Serum Foundation, but now I realize it’s because I always use it with dense brushes like this one. When I used it with the Blurring Foundation brush, I got the advertised sheer/light coverage instead. This brush is better suited for when I’m taking my blogging photos. I can quickly cover my face with product in a streak-free application. However, how quickly blending goes depends on how thin or thick the foundation is. For instance, it’s a breeze with my Nars Light Reflecting Foundation and I can use 1 small pump per side of my face and it’ll look close to full coverage. On the other hand, the Hourglass Ambient Soft Glow Foundation is thicker and trying to use less product to avoid a mask-like look takes much more time to blend because it’s not as easy to spread all over the face. So how much someone enjoys this brush could partly depend on the thickness or emollience of the foundation paired with it. I have used the shorter end to apply cream bronzer and it works, but is just too large to give the precision I like. I have also used it with cream blush and it works beautifully. The short side is too densely packed to blend comfortably, but picking up product on the slanted portion allows me to pounce it on my cheeks with ease. However, I mostly just stick to using this brush with foundation.

I’m still partial to my Blendiful, Sonia G Mini Base, and Tarte the Buffer brush, but these two from Smashbox come right after those. Once again, Smashbox proves why it’s one of my go-to brands for factory-made/non-handmade brushes. I can’t speak to the longevity of the newer line, but my oldest Smashbox ones from nearly ten years ago are still going strong. No loose ferrules, no shedding, and they’ve kept their shape all this time.

For additional opinions on Smashbox brushes, I will link to Nikki’s blog, which started the ball rolling on me giving Smashbox’s “new” brushes a chance in the first place.

CDJapan Eihodo Outlet Haul – The three brushes I bought that month were reviewed in my 5th Fude Update post.

That’s all for today! There will be no August monthly purchases since I showed everything that month in separate reviews, and the same can be mostly said for September, so I’m combining September and October in what will be a massive update post! I hope I’ll be able to complete that before the end of October. It makes me happy to be heading for the completion of this series! Thank you for reading!

-Lili

Luxury Makeup Reviews

I’m a little surprised by how many luxury products have tempted me this year. Then again, brands have been expanding their ranges, so I have products available to me now that I didn’t before.

Today’s post will be centered around some of the most exciting luxury makeup items that are newly part of my collection.

Dior Rosy Glow Blush in 012 Rosewood and 020 Mahogany

Dior reformulated their Backstage blushes, if they can even still be considered part of the “Backstage” line, since they removed that part of the official product name. I’ve seen photos on Instagram showing that the older formulation of Pink and Coral are darker than the new ones. I didn’t realize the old Coral could possibly work for me until it was already removed from every website. I even clicked lists I found online that supposedly had the older ones, but the links redirected to either the main page or to the new ones instead. So, the only way I could get the original coral was via third party sources. Since it’s not from an authorized retailer, there’s no way to know if it’s authentic, but I suspect it is compared to photos I’ve seen on Temptalia’s blog, for example. However, I’m only showing swatches and what it looks like demonstrated on my cheeks instead of factoring it into my official review. Today’s focus is on Rosewood and Mahogany that I purchased from Sephora and Selfridges respectively.

Rosewood is not only my favorite shade of the 4 additions to the range, it’s one of my favorite colors in my whole collection. I love how it looks on me! It’s not glowy due to shimmer. It just has a healthy sheen to it. It’s long lasting on my cheeks. In fact, I have to scrub vigorously at the end of the night because it nearly stains my skin. This might also be due to how much I have to use because Rosewood is such a subtle shade on me. I have to build it up a lot, but because it’s so blendable, it doesn’t take long to do it. My preference is using a goat hair brush with it because the powder is firmly pressed and that hair type picks it up easier.

I watched a fair amount of videos on these blushes, and a few people said these were patchy. However, the only one I’ve visibly seen on camera look patchy on others is the same one I have the issue with: Mahogany. There’s a separation between the Red 27 dye and the deeply rich brown color. My squirrel hair brushes can’t pick up the blush well enough, nor my silver fox, but I can use my squirrel/goat mix ones with this. However, even when I do try to patiently use a squirrel brush and blend as sheer of a layer as possible while attempting to build it up, I will eventually start to get more brown than reddish-pink. The random build up of brown in places does not look good on my cheeks. The photos I selected below are the best looking ones of Mahogany on my skin. It’s a balance of showing it as sheer as possible for the color to still get captured by my camera.

There are some videos on YouTube showing how Mahogany looks applied as a normal blush, for example this one by Beauty and the Frizz, or this one by Julie P. And an example of using it with some foundation patted over the top is by The Hooded Lid.

I’ve applied this over a powder-set base, an unset base, tried brushes with different hair types and synthetic fibers, and various brush shapes, but none of the changes made a difference. It still looks patchy on me and the tone of brown just doesn’t look flattering on my cheeks, potentially due to my undertone.
The way that I can continue to use this, and really like it, is as a sculpting blush. I apply it to areas I would normally bronze, making sure to apply it lightly, before adding Rosewood to the main cheek area. I’ve really enjoyed this combination!

My love of Rosewood makes me even more tempted to try Cherry and Berry. I feel certain Berry would perform on me the way Mahogany does, plus I’m super picky about berry blushes. Cherry is gorgeous, but it reminds me of a brighter version of Rosewood from what I’ve seen on other people, and I have several vibrant shades like it in my collection such as Pat Mcgrath’s Electric Bloom, Colourpop x Hello Kitty Aloha Honey, Nars Exhibit A, MAC’s Loudspeaker or Frankly Scarlet, Patrick Ta’s She’s Vibrant, etc. Most of these I barely use, so it doesn’t make sense to buy it, even if I think the color is a beautiful one.

Based on my experience, I recommend them. However, it comes with the warning that there may be a press or formulation issue based on the inconsistencies being reported about patchiness regardless of the shade, and only for some people but not others.

Gucci Luminous Matte Blush De Beauté in 09 Intense Plum

I’ve had mixed feelings about these blushes for a while now, as I mentioned in my review of the Armani Luminous Silk Glow Blushes and my comparison of those to these. So many people rave about them, but I feel no joy when I put them on. The closest I get to liking the color is with Warm Berry, but that shade is exceptionally pigmented. I have to be really light-handed or it looks overdone fast. Intense Plum also has a lot of pigment, but I take a small amount and really work it into my cheeks to make it look a little more natural. I still prefer the tone of Warm Berry, but the depth of the shade makes it harder to look as sheer as Intense Plum can.

I went back and forth deciding if Bright Coral would show up on me and whether it was worth the risk to buy. It’s very faint, and more visible in person, but I’m never satisfied using it alone unless I mix it with one or both of the other shades. In fact, I tend to apply this on top of the others to help tone them down. I’ll need to do a declutter eventually, and I haven’t decided if I’ll be keeping this one or potentially even removing two of them from my collection.

The formula is silky to the touch and goes on the skin smoothly with a soft satin sheen. It’s super quick to blend onto the cheeks if you like a bold look, but because of the pigmentation level of the deeper shades in the range, I have to be careful how much product I pick up and I do need to blend it out a bit. So, to get it as sheer looking on my cheeks as I want, it takes a little longer in my specific case. But the formula itself is quite blendable and long lasting on the skin. For some reason though, I’m just not as impressed with the end result on my cheeks as I feel I should be considering the price. I’m far more interested in keeping that beautiful packaging, which looks much cuter in person than the online photos. I take back every bad thing I’ve said about it being a clip art star pattern. It’s more luxurious than I expected.

Guerlain Terracotta Luminizer Highlighter Powder in 01 Gold

Considering this comes in only two shades and this is labeled 01, I was a little concerned that it wouldn’t work for me, but it does! This contains, “Gemtone: Adapts to skin’s true tone for a natural finish,” according to the description on Sephora’s website. I have no idea how I could prove or disprove that claim, but I thought I’d mention it for those who aren’t anywhere near my skintone and might worry if this will be too dark or too light.
This highlighter is very subtle and only really pops when applied on a dewier surface. This should be my type of highlighter, and I really expected this to be holy grail status, but I’m just not impressed enough considering the price. I hoped this would be my replacement for the 2015 Guerlain Meteorites I was obsessed with and used periodically for 6+ years until I decided it’s too old and put it in semi-retirement. However, the finish of it being less glowy than my Charlotte Tilbury highlighters while not being any more refined in terms of sparkle or particle size either, led me to not be as excited when I use it. I feel this way especially since it is on the lighter side for me and not a perfect undertone match. It’s good, but not fantastic. Even if this did come in the perfect color for me, there’s no guarantee it would raise my opinion of the formula considering PML’s Divine Rose highlighter is not a perfect match either, but I love how that one looks on me!

The packaging is pretty, but I’m not as excited by it as I expected either. When it comes to luxury makeup, the makeup at its best quality is usually still comparable to products from other brands, but the packaging helps make it worth that higher price. Because I think it’s nice but not amazing on the makeup and packaging fronts, this wasn’t worth buying. It’s strange to say I’m the most disappointed by this product out of the bunch in this review, but it’s because I had the highest of expectations for it only to be let down that it’s not at least as pretty on me as my old meteorites. My one tangible complaint that’s less about preferences is that as subtle as it looks in the beginning, the shine dulls down as the day progresses. So, I try to over-apply hoping it’ll last longer.

I honestly would have returned this if my time limit hadn’t run out. I ordered it during the VIB sale while away overseas and by the time I could actually see it in person, it took too long for me to make up my mind about it. I can at least take comfort in having gotten it on sale. I still think it’s a good product, but for the right person.

Chantecaille Sunbeam Cheek & Eye Shade in Ray

As it currently stands, this is the only product from Chantecaille that I love. The second best is the Blur Powder, which I like, but none of the rest of the Chantecaille products I’ve owned worked out.
I was thrilled that the brand released such a deep highlighter, though they tried very hard to emphasize and market this as an eyeshadow. It looks a lot deeper on others, but when I use this on my eyes, I put it in the typical highlighter spots and not usually all over the lid, the way I have it in the photo below.

Besides the eyes, I’ve also seen those with light skin tones find use for this as a shimmery blush or even as a bronzer.

The shimmer size is small and it’s a gel-powder formula, which I tend to love. Ray is another subtle highlighter that looks more intense on dewy skin. At certain times of the year, this can be a bit dark for me because of that base color, especially if I build it up. However, I’m perfectly happy with how it looks when I use a small amount and buff it in a bit because I also have to watch out for the shimmer particles that are on the lighter side for me. That’s why the combination of both kind of balances out (the deep base with the light shimmer).

It’s a bit ironic that the Guerlain highlighter looks better on me in photos than the Chantecaille highlighter photos, but I promise it’s another story in person.

In the swatch photo, I included the golden stripe from Charlotte Tilbury’s Dream Light Pillow Talk Multi Glow Highlighter (3rd out of the 4 shades), because that’s an example of my perfect “natural” highlighting color in depth and tone. Guerlain’s is gold, whereas Charlotte’s is golden, and Chantecaille’s is reddish bronze with a yellow-champagne shimmer. The shade Ray, when sheered out, looks closer to Charlotte’s than Guerlain’s does, which is why I think the color suits me better than Guerlain’s.

Also, please don’t ask why I continue to buy highlighters if I already have a fantastic formula and my perfect shade via Charlotte Tilbury.

The packaging doesn’t exude luxury, but it’s fun! I love the bright neon green. I love that I can spot it immediately in my collection. I like the unique imprint on the powder (although it reminds me a bit of something not-so-pretty) and the small compact size is great. I had points on my account at SpaceNK, plus there was a sale, so I bought this for significantly less than the retail price. Considering all this, plus the color and performance, I’m way happier with this than the Guerlain highlighter. I have to admit though, that the full price would never have been worth it to me. Unless the packaging is plated with gold, $50 is my limit for highlighters.

Tom Ford Highlighter Collection: Shade and Illuminate Highlighting Duo in Tanlight, Soleil Sheer Highlighting Duo in Reflects Gilt, and Skin Illuminating Powder Duo in Flicker

I purchased Tanlight from Nordstrom when it came out, Reflects Gilt from Beautylish during a sale, and Flicker from Mercari because it had already been discontinued. I saw a video where someone compared the Flicker shades to Tanlight and I didn’t even know it existed prior to that. Unfortunately, Flicker fell out off the plastic mesh/grid, so I smushed the pieces back in. Then it fell back out again and I glued them in. I don’t officially consider it part of this review and only included it for color comparison purposes in case anyone was wondering whether to get Tanlight if they already have Flicker. The top highlighters in both compacts are extremely similar, but Flicker has a stronger yellow tone. I think I like it by itself more than Tanlight’s lighter shade by itself, but the color of both highlighters in the Tanlight compact mixed together creates my perfect highlighter color. The advantage to the Flicker compact is that I could technically use the deeper shade as a glowy bronzer, but it’s so deep and sculpting that I have to be careful not to overdo it when I try to use it that way. Flicker is also so deep that mixing both together forms a color too dark to highlight with.

I’ve noticed no difference in the formula between either of the three products. They’re all very smooth on the skin, all impactful and reflective, all long lasting, and all gel-powder formulas. The new Shade and Illuminate duo compacts have the “TF” initials on the lid, but that’s about the only difference I’ve noticed in the packaging as well.

I don’t know if it’s just because the sparkles are easier to see with the lighter highlighters in the duos, but I could swear the lighter ones all have more shimmer in them than the darker ones.

As I mentioned before, Tanlight mixed is the best for me, followed by Flicker’s top shade, Tanlight’s bottom shade, Tanlight’s top shade, and Reflects Gilt’s bottom shade.
Reflects Gilt is a bit too light for my preference, with the exception of the darker one which I’ve started to use exclusively when I open that compact.

The retail prices of these duos are the same as the individual highlighters from Chantecaille. This would normally never be worth full price (I did get Tanlight at a minor discount), but it’s technically two products in one. This complicates things. Unlike a blush that someone can wear in a multitude of shades and have them all look beautiful, there is only a small range of colors that I feel I can pull off when it comes to highlighters. However, it’s because Tanlight produces perfection and I can tailor how much I use of either one in the event that my face gets lighter or darker throughout the year, that’s what makes this worth it for me. As for Flicker and Reflects Gilt and only really wanting one shade within each duo, the deep discounts that I got them for makes me not have any regrets buying them, although I’m not sure if I’ll keep Reflects Gilt in my collection forever. I don’t really have a purpose for keeping it when Tanlight is just a better fit for me overall. The packaging is quite pretty though, so I almost want to keep it just for that.

Givenchy Prisme Libre Skin-Caring 24H Hydrating Radiant Correcting Creamy Concealer in N390 and W420

This is a medium/buildable coverage concealer, instead of the complete full coverage ones that I normally stick to. What drew me to it was the hydrated look and the natural finish that wasn’t too radiant for my preference and wasn’t too creamy. Creamy concealers tend to crease on me beyond what I find an acceptable amount. This grips to my skin quite well and although it’s not as long lasting as my Tarte Shape Tape or KVD Good Apple, if I pair it with the right powder and use the right amount, it can get me through a short day’s wear with me feeling satisfied with how it looks at the end. If a concealer lasts 8 or more hours on me without being significantly faded or flat out gone, it’s a winner in my books.

Because it’s not full-coverage, I can’t wear my actual skintone shade over my dark circles because it shows underneath as a deep grey tinge. So, I have to utilize the under-painting technique in using a shade that’s deep enough to keep my dark circles and areas of skin discoloration from appearing grey when I apply the concealer. Then, to get it to match the rest of my face, I use my regular concealer color around the perimeter and blend them together. Because the combination isn’t a perfect undertone match, it still looks slightly off if I’m trying to have a minimal makeup day and skip foundation, but it looks perfectly natural on days I put foundation on. There are way more neutral shades in this line than warm tones, but I was determined to find a way to make it work for me.

Also, I’ve tried mixing this concealer with my other full coverage ones and the formulas just don’t mesh well. It fades faster or creases in a more obvious way. One time I tried using the Becca Under Eye Brightening Corrector with it, and that combo works well if Becca is kept away from the lines under my eyes. Lately, I’ve been enjoying using it over top of the Milk Hydro Grip Eye Primer (that I use for concealer and not eyeshadows), because it helps it last a little longer even if I don’t use the Givenchy powder with it.

Initially, one of the bigger issues I had was figuring out the right amount of product to use. This was resolved once I bought that second shade and didn’t have to try and pack on a ton of product to get the coverage I needed. The second issue was that I could not wear this concealer without setting it, and once I set it, I lost all the hydration and radiance it provided. The end result to the look of my under eyes was no different than Tarte’s Shape Tape, but with lower coverage. So, I experimented with different powders and ultimately decided I should use this concealer with the brand’s own powder. Doing this gives it a natural-matte appearance, but at least it doesn’t look as dry as other powders. I’m a lot more pleased with this combination.

As much as I like this concealer, and have gotten used to the idea of needing two shades for most of my favorites anyway, the price and the coverage is why I think I will stick to repurchasing my Tarte and KVD concealers after the Givenchy ones are finished. I can snag my holy grails for 30-50% off at certain times of the year, but with Givenchy, I can get 20% off at the most. Needing to use a special powder with this adds to the full cost of having this concealer, so it’s a good product that is just too expensive for me to continue with. I will enjoy it in the meantime while I’ve got it.

Givenchy Prisme Libre Loose Setting and Finishing Powder (Mini) in 5 Popeline Mimosa

As these swatches reveal, shade 5 turned out to be lighter than I anticipated. Givenchy has one version that’s darker, but I didn’t want the dark pink color in there and 6 Flanelle Epicée didn’t come in a mini size. Since the website model that matches me the closest was wearing Popeline Mimosa, I thought it would be a slam dunk, but perhaps 6 would be better for me to be able to use all four colors mixed. Trying all four together with this powder makes my under eyes look too stark white. In any case, I have been making do by putting tape over the holes for the lightest two and partially over most of the orange so that I can have only a slight brightening effect for my under eyes. I use this powder exclusively for the concealer areas since I don’t need to set my whole face, considering my dry skin. For the sake of science, I tried my combination of 1 part brown powder and 1/3 part orange powder all over my face. It seems to have a small blurring effect. I thought I noticed that under my eyes, but it was nice to test it on a larger area and confirm it. The brown powder is also supposed to be the radiant one, so perhaps that’s why it is mattifying, but not dry looking. By “radiant” I assume they mean a tiny colorless sheen because I don’t see any shimmer whatsoever, though it does contain Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (synthetic mica).

Since I’m only using this powder for a small area, and I have others I use with other concealers, the mini is going to last me quite a while.

I never use the puffs that come with my products, but I tried this one out. Part of the problem is that the powder comes out in clumps and when I press the puff into the powder (which I pour into the cap) and try to tap around to mix it, the colors don’t mix evenly. I can see all the spots where the lighter powders touched my face. So, I just prefer to use a brush instead. I pat, swish, and mix them in the cap with the brush before using it. Even just using the brown and orange requires proper blending of the powder together on the brush. A bit of product gets wasted this way since so much comes out from all those holes, plus mixing them up in a way that partly disperses some in the air. At least it takes a bit of time for the average person to go through a powder anyway. I still haven’t used up a single one, even in mini sizes.
I think that’s why I don’t really understand the appeal to having all these colored powders in one container. I don’t know why there isn’t a mechanism for opening and closing each of the sieves without me needing to put tape over them myself, unless this is something only in the full size jars? I don’t know why someone would need two color correcting options (Popeline Mimosa seems more like three). Shade 5 is listed as suiting those with “medium to deep skintones,” so when I use up all of the brown color, I’ll either try to give this to someone with a medium (or perhaps tan) skin tone who can use those lighter shades, or put it on Mercari. I don’t believe I’d repurchase this unless they decide to sell the brown color individually because I do like the finish of the powder and the blurring properties. However, loose powders are already a nuisance without factoring in being able to use 1/4 of the product in this container. I only really need this until I finish using the Givenchy concealers.

We’ve reached the end of this review!

Thank you for reading! I hope this has been helpful!

-Lili

Sydney Grace Palettes, Cream Eyeshadows, and Singles Haul

I’m posting at a slightly earlier time than usual because in one hour, Sydney Grace’s annual week-long Christmas in July event will begin! Everything in this haul was purchased last Black Friday, but that was because I skipped last year’s Christmas in July sale. The discounts look even better this year, so I wanted to show some of the unreviewed products from the brand that I haven’t featured yet in case anyone is interested in seeing them. My initial Sydney Grace review with a ton of eyeshadows can be found here, as well as the Temptalia collab here.

This event is typically the one time of year I make a purchase. I checked that everything in this post is still available, with the exception of the Sweet Indulgence Palette that launched during the previous sale and was on clearance by the time Black Friday rolled around. This year’s launches will be the Love’s Journey palette, Heaven on Earth palette, and Raspberry Kiss palette. If I decide to shop the sale, it will most likely be Day 2 where all palettes (including Love’s Journey, but I don’t think Heaven on Earth or Raspberry Kiss), cream shadows, and more are 40% off.

Tropicolor by The Fancy Face Eye Shadow Palette

Tina is one of my favorite YouTubers, so I wanted to support her collab like I did when she worked with Oden’s Eye, but this palette is very blue heavy and I’m still in a weird like/dislike relationship with blue eyeshadow. For this reason, even though I’ve had the palette since November 2022, I didn’t start using it until June 2023. Whenever I opened it up, my eyes were instantly directed to those blues and I’d get the urge to use a different palette instead. Since I knew the Christmas in July sale was coming up though, I decided to just push through and start playing. I initially felt like I had no idea how to use these colors together, besides monochrome color schemes, but every time after that was easy! My favorite shades in this palette are surprisingly the warm neutrals and unsurprisingly Doctor Bird and Lignum Vitae.

This palette has all the features I love about Sydney Grace eyeshadows. The mattes are pigmented and apply opaquely while still being very blendable. The satins are smooth and opaque as well. The binding in the shimmers are such that they adhere to the lid without getting a bunch of fallout specks everywhere. They don’t require me to wet my brush. They are pigmented with medium shimmer reflectivity, and opaque. They apply smoothly to the lid without leaning on a bunch of slip ingredients (the “cones”) to make it easy to spread. I love the tactile feeling of dimethicone in products, but the higher the percentage of it and the other -cones, the easier they are to crease on me. These eyeshadows work well on me with all my typical primers: Gerard Cosmetics Clean Canvas, Coloured Raine Paint Base, MAC Paint Pot, and Urban Decay Primer Potion. However, I have to be careful not to have an excess of the Paint Pot on my lids or else the shadows will move out of the crease. Too much wetness from an eye base will mess with the longevity.

Some other things to know is that Doctor Bird is a bit flaky, but not enough to cause shimmer fallout on the eyes once it’s finished being smoothed onto the lid. I still don’t need to apply this shade damp. The reason the texture is like this is because it’s a chromatic shadow and Sydney Grace’s pressed multichrome formula is the flakiest of the brands I’ve tried. So, it makes sense that this shade would have a bit of that texture. Waterfalls is chunkier than the others, but again, it’s just a tactile thing and doesn’t effect performance.

Cocoa Beans is a deep rich brown that is more on the buildable side than the other mattes, specifically for being able to control the depth it provides. I’m actually quite impressed!

In my swatches, it’s admittedly hard to see the tone difference between Waterfalls and Rainforest, so I included the photo below.

Besides the blues, the only other aspect of the palette that isn’t my preference is Cane Fields being such a blue leaning green. I love yellow leaning, straightforward greens, and even bluish greens if they’re deep enough. However, I understand that because of all the blues in the palette it makes sense to want to have greens that’ll merge the cool shades with the warmer ones.

If you’re like me and love most of the color story, but are a little put off by the arrangement, remember that these pans are removable. I rearranged mine by booting the blues to the bottom row and now I feel a lot more excited when I open the palette! I could also just put these in my giant palette with my other depotted Sydney Grace eyeshadow singles or switch out some of the shades for other Sydney Grace singles, but rearranging them was enough of a change for me. Now, I’m able to see the beauty of it.
I put the shade names on label stickers on the bottom of the pans, so I can always put them back in their proper places.

Sweet Indulgence 9 Pan Palette

This palette released around the same time as Colourpop’s Ticket to Dreamland. I decided that between the two, I’d rather have Sydney Grace’s formula, so I was glad I eventually got my hands on this since that palette was discontinued by Colourpop as well.

I have to be in a very particular mood to want to wear pinks, and these in here are pretty! Gumdrop is quite the attention grabber, but definitely not a unique shade, and Sherbet is objectively a beautiful tone, but I don’t want to use it with any of the shades in this palette. I like Sweet Cakes, but I don’t need a second deepening shade with Sweet Tooth in there, so I replaced those shades with Deliverer (purple), Lost Princess (red-orange), and Turtledoves (champagne). Now, it has a candy and creamsicle vibe going on!

Even though this palette is discontinued, there are tons of single shadows still available from Sydney Grace that are similar enough to create a dupe version.

Individual Eyeshadows in Be the Sunshine, Herky Bird, and Rustic

The label on my eyeshadow pan says, “Be My Sunshine,” but the website name is “Be the Sunshine.” In my order confirmation email, the item has both names.

I didn’t intend to purchase coordinating eyeshadow singles. At the time, I just wanted eyeshadows that weren’t repeats in my collection and could feed more of my green obsession. It was a happy accident! I love these shadows together and they perform exactly as I’d expect from this brand. There’s nothing else really to say other than Rustic is a satin/shimmer and the other two are pressed pigment shimmers. So, I’m able to use Rustic almost like a matte and it doesn’t crease on me.

Cream Shadows in Sunset Glow and Deep Love

I previously only used Sydney Grace’s multichrome cream shadow. Once the texture got worse, over time, I really didn’t like it. So, I didn’t dive further into the line. However, for the multichromes specifically, they changed the tube size a few years ago and increased the shelf life. Since I’ve heard nothing but great things about the cream shadows overall, I decided to give them another try.

How I use them is to pour some out onto the back of my hand and take a flat concealer brush to spread them onto my lids with more precision than, say, my fingers. If I’m using both colors, I try to let the first dry before adding the second. I also try not to blink too much if using one as an all-over-lid shade so that it doesn’t get bald spots or patches while drying. If it does lose opacity in a spot, the brand recommends rubbing them. I have found it easy to just add a little back on to the spot in question. These layer nicely and I don’t get any cracking of the eyeshadow and mine don’t add extra texture. They blend well into each other and still look great on top of powder eyeshadow. I can even add powder shadows back on top without it looking strange.

In addition to lid shades, these work nicely as liners. These are fairly lightweight, even more than the Melt Gel Liners. They’re not waterproof, but they hold on very well and don’t fade on me. The shine dulls down a little towards the end of the day, but they have quite a long wear time. If I didn’t love the ease of using powder shadows so much, I would absolutely purchase additional colors from Sydney Grace. So, I recommend them to cream eyeshadow lovers.

That’s everything for today! I hope it has been helpful!

-Lili

Suqqu Pre-Summer and Summer ’23 Review

Summer is nearly over, at least in the beauty world. I believe Suqqu’s Fall Collection (or Pre-Fall) is coming to Selfridges on July 27th. So, I wanted to hurry and finish this post in case anyone is interested in getting the limited edition items while they still can!

Suqqu Pre-Summer 2023 Pure Color Blush in 138 HYUUGAAOI and 139 KAFUU

I watched several videos to help me decide which of the two Pre-Summer options I should get. Of course, I ended up with both, but my initial hunch was correct. 138 Hyuugaaoi is a copper-orangish red which appears as more of a blush tone on me than 139 Kafuu’s bronze-brownish pink. I do like them both though.

I was reluctant to purchase Hyuugaaoi out of fear it would be too similar to 132 Momijigari from last year’s fall collection, but they are definitely not the same. In fact, it’s a bit in reverse that Hyuugaaoi has a shimmery blush with a matte yellow strip, whereas Momijigari has a deeper, more vibrant and matte red blush with a shimmery yellow strip.

In the photo demonstrations that will come later, I used a mixture of the first and second strips as highlighters to show the way it looks on the face as intended. However, I normally ignore the highlighter parts of all the Pure Color Blushes because they’re too light for me unless I mix some of the blush shade in with it to add depth.

Above are the blush portions alone to show how similar they look.
Below are two different attempts to take pictures of these blushes, but they’re a lot harder to see on my camera due to how reflective they are. I like them both, but Hyuugaaoi is more of my style.

Also, I couldn’t help but think about the Rms blushes when taking photos of these. The ones from Suqqu are surprisingly more shimmery and have nearly as much reflection strength as my more subtle highlighters. They’re not too shimmery for my taste, but I also try not to build up the color to the maximum level, which would increase the amount of reflective particles that come along with it.

These have more in common with the BareMinerals Blonzers, which are holy grail blushes in my collection. The shade Hyuugaaoi is like if Kiss of Copper and Kiss of Rose were mixed together. The BareMinerals Blonzers are actually more reflective, but have a more pigmented base and the original three are smoother as well. So, not only do I like them even more on my skin than the ones from Suqqu, they also show up easier on camera no matter the lighting situation.

As is the case with all my Suqqu blushes, I don’t have any longevity issues. I recommend these, though I still prefer the Melting Powder Blush formula and the matte Pure Color blushes over them. The upcoming fall release has shades more along the lines of Kafuu coming up, so I don’t plan on getting any of them. I have enough brown blushes now. I don’t plan on buying anything from the Anniversary Collection coming in September either.

Suqqu Summer 2023 Pure Color Blush in 140 IROMADOI

I knew this would never work for me as a blush, but I was so excited at the prospect of this potentially being like the limited edition Melting Powder Highlighter that was released without having another shade option available. It looked peachy in the photos and videos I saw a day or two before purchasing, by people who had it in PR or took photos of them in-store in Japan, but it looks chalky beige on my finger, let alone my skin tone. It didn’t matter if I rubbed the entire surface or just into just the darkest parts of the swirls. It always came out the exact same pale color.

The texture was also nowhere near like the highlighter. It was far too light for me to use as a highlighter, so this is actually already out of my collection. However, I wanted the gorgeous iridescent packaging, so I popped the pan out and swapped it for the standard packaging instead. That’s why blush 138 and 140 are not in their correct compacts in the first photo at the top of this review. I was able to at least keep the packaging and still have the makeup inside be usable. That’s one of the things I love about Suqqu. The glue remained tacky enough to be able to do this.

Suqqu Signature Colour Eyes Eyeshadow in 125 Hikarimai

The duochrome in the bottom left of the compact is the main reason I wanted this palette. It looked different from duochromes in my collection, I also wanted the packaging, and I didn’t mind having that dark shade as well. The eye looks on everyone I saw long after the launch is what made me decide to pick it up weeks later. Unfortunately the top left topper shade does hardly anything for me. It took ages to build up that shade in the inner corner of my eye, even after wetting the brush. It’s meant more for scattered effect looks. I depotted that and swapped it for a different Suqqu shadow (as seen once again in the group product photo in the beginning). The tan brown is pretty much my eyelid color. I can use it to blend out the darker shades and set my eye primer, but that’s about it. The dark color doesn’t stick well to my eyes. When I used it solo on my lids, I kept getting a bald spot where it just refused to stay looking opaque. It’s just a bit too sheer. It’s hard to use it in the outer corner as well because it fades away when I blend too much. The green duochrome is more subtle than I’d like, but it’s pretty. It’s still the star of the show. Overall though, this color story just isn’t meant for someone of my skin tone. In at least swapping out the pale shimmer pink, I’m able to create looks I like more. And I know not to use the dark shade except in the outer corner and when I don’t mind it fading. Which means I’m likely only going to use it to take quick photos or solely reach for this quad for the green shade.

Bonus: Suqqu Treatment Wrapping Lip Gloss in 02 Caramel Beige and 05 Candy Pink

The Summer 2023 Collection has two different shades of lip wrapping glosses that were released: a pearlescent pink and pearlescent blue that were intended to mimic the look of white and black pearls. I believe those might have been too cool toned to look good on me considering the warmth of my skin’s undertone, so I skipped getting them. However, I can still give my thoughts on the formula because I have two of them from the permanent range.

I first purchased 05, and loved it! My lips feel moisturized when I use it and I love the color when it’s built up. I have the issue that if I wear this for too many days in a row, my lips will start to dry out. This is still better than some products that cause my lips to peel before the day is even over. It’s just a problem I have with the majority of lip products containing color, but this speaks to the nourishing aspect of this product that it takes a few days before I need to switch to a Sara Happ balm, Avene Lip Cream, even just basic Vaseline, etc.

I wanted shade 02, and had to wait for it to be restocked, so that I could have a neutral shade that I wouldn’t feel was necessary to build up. And, in fact, it looks a little too light and milky on my pigmented lips to wear this particular shade alone if I’m trying to build up to a visible color. It looks nearly clear if I wear it in a normal layer, which means I can wear it that way with any makeup look without it clashing. It also looks good when paired with a lip liner.

I’m a big fan of this formula now and I was really loving the Lisa Eldridge Gloss Embrace Lip Glosses until this one quickly dethroned it as a treatment, though not necessarily as a gloss. Suqqu’s shine level with these glosses isn’t Fenty or Pat Mcgrath level or anywhere as much as a lip oil, but it’s a decent amount, even if a little understated.

This, in my opinion, is somewhere right in the middle between not being thin and watery, but also not being too thick or gloopy. It has just enough sticking power necessary to grip onto the lips and form a layer that lasts fairly well and there are sometimes even remnants of it after eating. I still reapply, but I can still feel the moisture even after the glossy layer comes off.

This is a bit pricey, but I would consider repurchasing it if it came in a clear version in the future. Then again, the Ami Colé Lip Treatment Oils agree even more with my lips (I can use it repeatedly without the chapping issue), so I may just stick with that instead.

That’s all for today! Thank you for stopping by!

-Lili

Viseart Coy Palette and Blush Duo Reviews

I intend to make this a quick review of the two latest additions to my Viseart collection. I bought the blush duo during last year’s After-Christmas sale via Beautylish, but I’ve only had the mini Coy palette for two weeks.

Viseart Petites Shimmers Palette in Coy

I’ve wanted the full-size Coy since 2019, but because it consists of all shimmers and in pastel and light duochromatic shades that I wouldn’t wear often, I knew this would be a purely supplemental palette for me.
Two years ago, I purchased my favorite individual eye shadows from Coy, Murasaki and Kamakura, as a compromise for being unable to justify spending $80 for a palette I would always feel like I had to pair with another palette in order to use it.
So, I was thrilled when the brand finally released it in the Petites form!

I’ve reviewed Viseart’s shimmers in the past, and the list of their links can be found here, but these are a bit different because of how they’re thinner and more sheer. They have more pigment than toppers, but they seem to have been created for adding a veil of color over other shades. They can be built up to appear more opaque by spraying them and packing them on, which I tend to do since I’m not as into the watercolor eyeshadow look.

Viseart’s shimmers are famously intended for soft looks with their satin textures, muted colors, and low-sparkle level. So, whenever they deviate from that, my interest is piqued. These are still quite soft, with some shades tamer than others, but there’s extra glimmer to Pond (like an aqua blue mixed with seafoam green), Gin (duochrome cool silver-purple), Taiko (iridescent purple), Lotus (lavender with slight blue-purple shimmer), and Yamabuki (duochrome coral base with gold-green shimmer).

As I mentioned before, I already owned Murasaki (medium-dark purple with lighter purple shimmer) and Kamakura (medium green base with yellow/gold shimmer) as singles, but the other favorites I always wanted were Yamabuki, Midori (light yellow-green), and Lotus. Unfortunately for me, the base color on my eyes hardly shows in Yamabuki and all that can really be seen is the shimmery goldish green tinge. I wish it looked more like the color in the pan on my lids, so that was a disappointment. It’s essentially yet another highlighting type of shadow for me, as if Gin, Tokyo (light tan-beige), Taiko, and technically Midori and Lotus, weren’t enough. Midori has a stronger yellow tinge to it than green, which I wish was the reverse, but it’s still pretty. Lotus is the one that was exactly as I expected, which made me happy. However, it’s a shade I own plenty of in my collection, so I’m glad I didn’t buy it as a single. In fact, it was a good thing I didn’t buy any of the rest as singles because I think I’ll be reaching for these even less than I thought. I’m thrilled to finally have them all in a more affordable form, but if I’m being honest with myself, they don’t suit my particular eyeshadow style. That being said, I have no intentions of decluttering this palette anytime soon.

Regarding longevity, I’ve had no issues with these lasting other than the tiniest bit of creasing over MAC Paint Pot, but no issues over the Gerard Cosmetics Clean Canvas or Coloured Raine Paint Base primers.

The quality of this palette is good, so I do recommend it, but only for those that like toned down textures of eyeshadows and lightly colored shimmers that are bright in tone but don’t really “pop.” Those that like thin watercolor effect shimmers and like that they’re on the sheer side.

I did all these eye looks very quickly and wasn’t going for precision. Also, since the Isamaya Industrial 2.0 Collection just released, it’s only natural for it to be on my mind. The palette in that collection has some shades that remind me of these. This might be a tamer and easier to use alternative for those that don’t want to spend so much on that one. They are definitely not dupes, but I get spring vibes from both of them, which is ironic since they have seemingly opposite themes. One is a mix of mythology and nature, especially water themed, with “crystalline” finishes, while the other revolves around manufacturing and is a, “softer, subtler take on heavy metal.” To be fair, metals are a natural element too.

Viseart Blush Duo in Coquelicot

I like duos because of the ability to have essentially three shades in one: the first color, second color, and the third shade that results in combining them both. I’ve used this product less times than one would expect, considering I’ve owned it for over half a year. This is because of my preferences in blush finishes, shades, and texture. Plain matte blushes, the ones with no sheen whatsoever, have been the least favored type for me for at least a year now. I like soft matte, demi or semi mattes, and satins, but purely matte is a harder sell. However, it’s certainly not impossible for me to like them. Tarte and MAC are brands that come to mind that make mattes that aren’t flat. Thankfully, this one from Viseart doesn’t look flat, but also doesn’t look flattering either until it settles and combines with the oils in my skin. Knowing this, I try to help it along by prepping my dry skin with hydrating skincare before putting on my makeup, or at least applying a facial oil to my cheek area prior to adding foundation and then blush. This was the case in the demonstration photos with me wearing the blushes.

The texture of the powder is dry to the touch, but it at least doesn’t make my skin look drier, even without the extra skin prep. This makes it more successful than the reformulated Sephora Colorful Blushes I reviewed a few weeks ago. Since we’re on the topic of duos, if you’re looking for a fantastic quality blush duo in a soft matte finish, I highly recommend the Sephora ones discussed in that post too!

The blush shades from Viseart are colorful ones with no natural skin-flush colors in the line. Coquelicot has pretty colors. I don’t think I could have chosen a duo that suited my preference better than this one out of the six choices available, but I always end up mixing both shades together. When I wear the lightest one alone, I can built it up, but it’s a little more faint than I like. I instantly pine for something with more of a pop. Ironically, when I wear the darker one alone, it’s so pigmented, vibrant, and intense that I always feel like it’s too much and that I have to mix it with something else to tone it down. I used a light hand with it in my photo example below, though. In order to pick up less product, it makes sense to switch to my squirrel hair brushes, but most of those that I own are fully round and/or much bigger than those rectangular pans. It’s a little annoying searching through my limited options fitting that criteria for a brush shape that fits nicely and coats the bristles evenly without needing to dip into the blush multiple times or getting some of the lighter shade mixed in too.

While the perfect pairing is having these two together, I lose some of the benefits of having a blush duo when a single medium toned peachy-coral shade would suffice too. This is of course a “me” problem since plenty of other people can get enjoyment out of wearing each one by itself. I am happy though that Viseart’s blushes don’t contain the white base that can make a shade like the lighter one appear ashy on those with melanin-rich skin. It’s pigmented enough that I can still use it, though I have to spend a little time building it up. The second color takes time blending and applying slowly, as to not overdo it, which I easily can.

These blend decently and last all day without fading. I’ve grown to like them a little more than when I first got them, and part of that had to do with using the skin hydration trick and always wearing them mixed. At the non-sale $30 price for two blushes, I think it’s fair. I’ve paid that price for single blushes. It’s not my favorite formula, but I like it enough that it made me interested in the concept of Viseart’s new Fleurette Face Palettes. The option of combining a quad and blush duo in one magnetic/customizable package for $40 is a pretty great deal. The one I have my eye on for the blushes though, Bisous, looks quite similar to Coquelicot. When I contacted Beautylish customer service to ask if they are the same, the rep couldn’t confirm, but acknowledged they look similar enough that they might look the same on the skin even if they were technically different shades. Perhaps I should have contacted Viseart instead, but I need all the help I can get to remember I’m supposed to be on a low-buy and this answer gives me enough reason to pass on getting it.

So that’s everything for today! Thank you for reading!

-Lili

Testing More From Tarte Cosmetics Part 2

Tarte is one of those brands that I’m interested in purchasing from, but I’m almost never willing to buy their products at full-price. And, frankly, one doesn’t need to because they have quite a few sales at 30% off or more throughout the year. Between my Black Friday purchases from last year, and the “Choose 4 for 50% off” deal from April, I have enough products to do part 2 of my original dedicated Tarte post.

Sweet Tarte Cravings Eyeshadow Palette

Considering how pretty the outer packaging is and how adorable the chocolate shaped eyeshadows are on the inside, it’s amazing that I was able to hold off on getting this palette until it was discounted. It’s so cute and has some fun textures and finishes.

These perform as well as any other Tarte palette, but it’s quite interesting how foiled and wet all five shimmers are. Tarte shimmers tend to be creamy, but these are much wetter to the touch than I expected, while still clearly being a powder product and not an actual cream. As for the mattes, or at least Truffle and Drizzle, they’re the standard buttery feeling mattes I’ve come to expect from the brand. Semi-Sweet and Ganache are semi-matte considering they have dark colored micro shimmer in there that I didn’t notice until about the fifth time I used the palette. They just look matte on my eyes. The texture of those is also a little drier than I’m used to.

Raspberry Swirl and other medium toned magenta shades tend to look red on my eyes instead of purple, and Semi-Sweet just looked brown instead of plum. So, I was a bit disappointed that I’m not getting the purple shades I wanted. It’s basically entirely a warm neutral palette for me. However, it’s pretty and good quality, so I’m happy with the palette. I get a little creasing from the shimmers, particularly in the inner portion of my eyes, but it’s acceptable for all-day wear.

Maneater Catitude Eyeshadow Palette

I was interested in the Maneater After Dark palette, but it’s quite large, and I tend to pass on those nowadays. This Maneater Catitude palette has the green and some neutrals I was interested in, so I bought it hoping it could be a more curated version of Maneater After Dark.

The mattes don’t feel like the others I’ve had from Tarte. Rather than creamy, they instead have a silky-slip feel to them. They are still pigmented and buildable, but not quite as easy to blend as the Amazonian Clay matte formula. Attraction, Smitten, and Infatuation are adequate quality. Instincts has the tendency to be patchy and is more time consuming to blend than the other mattes.
The shimmers Sizzle and Spicy are foiled type of eyeshadows too, and smooth, though not wet like the ones in the Sweet Tarte Cravings palette.

I’ve liked the looks I have made with this palette, and I like the sparkle level in the shimmers, but because of the nearly flaky texture, I still spray my brush when I apply them because I feel they need a little help with adhesion. Doing that does lead to noticeable, but not terrible, creasing.

This palette is pretty good for the price, and even better at a discount, but it was most useful just to satisfy my curiosity. The quality wasn’t special enough to really be worth buying when I get more enjoyment out of my Dior Backstage Khaki Neutrals palette and Bobbi Brown Jadestone palette, even though those are twice the price.

Tartelette Juicy Amazonian Clay Palette

This was one of my Black Friday purchases, and getting the deal is the only way I’d have bought this palette because I have random moods when I want to rock pink eyeshadows, but they are few and far between. I really like the Amazonian Clay eyeshadow formula, as I discovered after getting the Tartiest Pro 2 Palette, so the quality didn’t disappoint. The mattes are creamy and blendable. The shimmers are shiny and smooth, though I like to help them along by applying them damp. I sometimes get issues with the shadows disappearing from the inner corner of my eyes from rubbing that spot, but otherwise, they usually have good longevity.

These are great for soft, girly, romantic looks and for neutral lovers. I knew this prior to purchasing. I just wanted more depth from Dream Chaser and Dusk. It’s the same issue as the Sweet Tarte palette’s magenta color pulling red instead. Dusk, on my eyes, isn’t the rich brown I expected. It’s more of a medium golden-bronze color. Euphoric is the only option for me to deepen up a look to the level I like. So, this isn’t perfect, but I like it. I might have regretted buying it at full price, but the 50% off made it palatable.

Maracuja Juicy Lip Balm (Travel Size) in Strawberry, Hibiscus, and Coconut

This balm comes in a plumping version as well, but I tend to avoid those types unless they’re very hyped up and described as a minty plumping product, since I like having a cooling sensation on my lips on occasion.

I think these give a decent amount of color payoff, but they do need to be applied thickly for it to show. The issue is that the formula feels almost too soft for the tube packaging. I think a doe foot applicator or some other type that could smooth out the color would have been better. The balm, when glided across the lips, comes off in thicker chunks of color. It looks terrible unless one rubs the lips together, which spreads the color evenly at the expensive of that action sheering it out.

To get the color to show in photos, I end up using my finger to spread it, add a second layer, then spread it with my finger again. Strawberry has more pigment than Coconut and Hibiscus, or at least Strawberry shows up more strongly over my natural lip color. The amount required to see my lips visibly tinted is a lot, so I started to just use them for nourishing lip purposes instead of a color product.

While it feels moisturizing and soft in the beginning of the day, eventually by the end (with retouches throughout the day since it doesn’t last after food), my lips dry out slightly. This happens to me with nearly every balm with color added to it. I just have excessively dry lips and so many things can exacerbate it. The upside and why I still use this from time to time is because a lot of other lip products dry my lips much earlier in the day. With this one from Tarte, if I just remove it by the evening time and switch to something more nourishing early in the night, I won’t have any of the negative consequences. I get to keep enjoying the slightly tinted and beautifully glossy look it gives.

To clarify, when I use the term “tinted” in this context, I mean visibly seeing a different hue on my lips instead of my natural lip color. I don’t mean tinted from a lip stain.

As I mentioned before, the texture is a bit strange to put in stick packaging since it’s such a soft melty consistency. It instantly made me think of the Makeup by Mario Plumping Lip Serums and MAC Glow Play Lip Balms. The difference is that the Tarte balm is thick, glossy, and creamy, whereas Makeup by Mario’s is thin, shiny, and oily. MAC’s is also wet and “oily” for lack of a better term. One more thing about the Tarte balm that others might not like is that it has some stickiness to it, but not enough to bother me.

Shape Tape Glow Bronzer in Deep Bronze

I bought this expecting to use it as a highlighter because Deep Bronze looks lighter and more golden in the product photos than it is in reality. I did not expect it to be so dark!

This means that I can use it as intended. Good job, Tarte! I’ve noticed the brand’s efforts to have more shade options for their products. There’s still some room to grow, after all, only two shades is still going to exclude a lot of people from being able to use them. Plus the brand still doesn’t have a traditional bronzer in a wearable shade for those with deep skin. However, I acknowledge the increased efforts as of late. That being said, I wish they’d be more transparent about what this product actually is and does, because it’s pretty much a contour.

The name Shape Tape implies that it’s a sculpting product, but the line started with concealers. Sure, technically it can lift the face if a brighter shade is used, but I believe most people are like me in viewing Shape Tape as a product to conceal unwanted things on the face, not as a highlighting and contouring product. There was a Shape Tape foundation, after all, which doesn’t fit the sculpting idea either.
Although these “Glow Bronzers” are part of the Shape Tape line, they’re described on the website as, “radiant baked bronzing powders for a luminous glow.” So, I didn’t question it being anything more than a glowy bronzer. I was pleased when it turned out to be darker than I thought, but confused by how grey toned it looked in the compact. I own some products that look warmer in the light, but even in the light this has to be at a very specific angle to see a warmer tinge.

It’s only the box packaging that has writing on it stating that this product is a, “natural matte” and “cool toned powder.” Radiant and luminous, as described on the website, is definitely not the same thing as natural matte! In addition, the fact that it’s cool toned means it is very likely to have a contouring effect if it’s too many shades darker than someone’s natural skin tone, as is the case for me. There are people who specifically prefer cool toned bronzers, but the advertising gives no indication that this is what we’d be getting. Plus, most of the images of the product itself looks super shimmery, meanwhile only some of the model photos have it looking semi-matte. So, buyers please be aware that Deep Bronze is a sculpting bronzer or contour with a slight sheen. It’s not shimmery or glittery whatsoever. Below is an example of the shimmer level of the BareMinerals Blonzer (Kiss of Spice) and Kosas Sun Show Bronzer (Paradise) look like compared to the one from Tarte.

If I apply this lightly, I can see some of the red tones come through, but it always appears patchy. No matter what brush I use, or whether my base has been powder set or not, I end up needing to go back over the area with foundation, concealer, or to cover up the uneven spots with blush. If I use a normal amount of product, it looks more even, but it also creates a stronger contoured effect. So, what I tend to do more often is apply it like a contour and add a bronzer from another brand over the top of it. I’ve found a way to make it work and look pretty in my own eyes, but I don’t see myself reaching for this again. It’s just too much effort when I have a contour from Kaleidos that I like or the custom powder combination I can make from Hindash’s Beautopsy palette.

In the demonstration photos below, the sheer application looks quite grey, but grey/brown/red in the thicker layer. I didn’t realize until afterwards that my attempts to apply it, see it’s too patchy, remove it, try it again, and repeat the cycle with different brushes led to the final result looking darker/cooler. I believe it’s due to there not being enough time between my fourth or so re-application of foundation not being 100% dry before adding the sheer layer for the final time. I must have been feeling a little impatient by the fourth time since I wanted to demonstrate this product in the best possible light, knowing my words about it would be negative.

Another thing I can’t ignore is the closure of the packaging. Some genius thought it was a good idea to make the space to lift the lid practically flush with the bottom of the compact. A compact that already has holes on the bottom, making it awkward to place the fingers to grip. I have to literally stick my nail in the tiny space and hold my other nail in the side gap to pull it open. I rarely have trouble with packaging enough to need to mention it in a review, but this one is quite annoying.

These are examples of the space usually between the lid opening and bottom of the compacts. One of the easier ways to open the one from Tarte, if you have long nails, is gripping both sides of the gold portion and lifting both sides of the plastic lid with the other hand.

Expectations for a luminous bronzer aside, I recommend the evenly priced Huda Beauty GloWish Soft Radiance Bronzing Powder instead. It has a prettier sheen and blends right into the skin. Longevity isn’t an issue for either of these two produdcts. The GloWish comes in more shades, plus some of the colors are available in mini sizes too.

Blur Brush

I selected the Blur Brush because I’ve always wondered how it compares to The Buffer brush, a long time holy grail synthetic fiber foundation brush. They both have a ton of bristles packed together. I always thought The Buffer was dense, but the Blur Brush is on another level! It feels especially tighter packed because it has much shorter bristles. The Buffer brush has longer fibers, so there’s a little more room to bend and splay, so there’s more flexibility while buffing it. The Blur Brush is so dense that it takes more force to move the product across the face. The wide surface area keeps it moving quite evenly though, and the foundation remains mostly on the tips and doesn’t go far down the bristles, which means less product gets lost during the application. Because of that tightness, it’s also more intuitive to swipe the foundation as opposed to trying to buff it in.

I should also note that I’ve only used these brushes with liquid foundations. I haven’t used them with creams or powders. In theory, I think the blur brush might pick up and disperse too much powder if it’s a setting or finishing one. However, one might like it for maximizing the coverage of a powder foundation. Also, I can imagine a stiff cream product with this stiff brush might be uncomfortable. However, I don’t know for sure since I only ever intend to use this with liquids.

Because the excess foundation remains on the skin and doesn’t go further into the brush, it can look like product is sitting on top of the face if too much is accidentally pumped out. For that reason, the Buffer Brush is more helpful for me to use because it takes the excess off the face and also helps push the remaining product further into the skin for a more natural look. The Blur Brush is still quite useful, but it takes second place to The Buffer for me and my foundation needs.

Two other things I noticed is that wherever the brush touches the foundation first will leave the biggest pool of product on the brush. I can blend some of it out of the pool and onto the face, but that initial part is the only place foundation gathers, besides the tips. The other thing is that this feature of how tightly packed the fibers are makes it both harder and easier to clean. At least I don’t need to worry about opening the brush and soaping up what’s deeper, but it’s hard to get the product out of the places it did stick.

So far, I’m still pleased with my decision to give this brush a try.

That is everything for this post! Thank you for reading!

-Lili

10 Kayali Fragrances Reviewed: Yum Gelato, Sugared Patchouli, Lovefest, and More

I like some of these fragrances so much that even though I said I wouldn’t do a perfume review again, I felt compelled to share my utter enthusiasm for some of these discoveries!

DISCLAIMER: Perfume is the most subjective category within the beauty industry. I do not consider myself a fragrance connoisseur. I can only relay what my personal experiences with these perfumes have been based on how they performed on my body and clothes with my sweat glands, my sense of smell, my preferences/tastes, the air quality around me, etc.
So, I’ve decided to have fun with this review and make it a little entertaining, while still doing my best to provide all the information I can of my experiences, whether those coincide or differ from public opinion. I bought all of these myself with my own money. All links in this review are regular standard non-affiliate links. For the sake of giving photo credit, I also provided links to the locations of the images I used to help demonstrate the vibes of these perfumes, so that does not mean that I support or endorse the content provided on those websites.

My journey with the brand really kicked off when I purchased the Kayali Discovery Sampler Set from Sephora. Because I enjoyed so many of them, I ended up purchasing additional travel sizes after that and I consider Kayali to be one of my new favorite perfume houses now.
What this brand has done, that I think is aiding in their popularity, is offer the ability to purchase 1.5 ml sample vials from their website. It makes trying everything from them more accessible. Someone could find, for instance, their perfect vanilla scent out of the many options with that note available. If I were to only buy a few travel sizes blindly, it would be one or two at most and if those weren’t to my taste I would have likely stopped there. However, in buying a sampler of 7 and liking 5 of them, I ended up purchasing more travel sizes than I expected and I plan to get more if I actually end up going through the ones I have. That results in them getting even more money out of me than would have happened otherwise.

Kayali just released the limited edition The Wedding Silk Santal and The Wedding Velvet Santal fragrances, but I don’t believe I’ll be purchasing those…

So, we can proceed with the newest three to my collection before we get to the discovery set!

Yum Pistachio Gelato 33

Photo Credit: Wilton

There have been several standout perfumes I’ve smelled in my lifetime that I’ve obsessed over, but Yum Gelato has had the strongest hold over me. I have wanted to wear it every day since buying it, but had to force myself not to because my boyfriend did not share the same enthusiasm for it in the months I was visiting him, and when I returned to the US, I still needed to properly test the other perfumes.

This brings me to the most important thing I hope to get across in this specific review: Yum Gelato is something you have to try for yourself. Perfumes smell differently when mixed with everyone’s body chemistry, but it’s never been more apparent than with this one. This fragrance is extremely polarizing because all of the notes are not detectable on one person at the same time, and the notes one might be looking for most might not be the ones that come through on the skin. For instance, I’ve seen some people say it’s not as sweet as they expected, whereas it’s insanely sweet on my skin. Like, an overload of vanilla-frosting goodness that those same people would probably say were at sickly sweet levels if they smelled it on me. In addition, the reason some people might dislike this fragrance could be the exact reason another person loves it. The sillage is also super strong with this one, so you might want to consider how those around you will feel. For instance, my boyfriend says it’s like being bowled over by a sweet cloud if he comes around me within the first hour or two of spraying it.

If I keep it to a single spritz, it’s still too intense for him within the first half hour. After that, he doesn’t mind it. Of course, that’s not the enthusiastic reaction I want to get from him, but I love this perfume so much that I’m willing to compromise. It’s too good not to wear for my own enjoyment!

The scent profile has a ton of notes listed according to Fragrantica: Top notes of pistachio, ice cream, bergamot, hazelnut, rum, and cardamom. Middle notes of Lily-of-the-Valley, pear, peony, jasmine, geranium, raspberry, and white peach. Base notes of whipped cream, marshmallow, cotton candy, Turkish Delight, Tonka Bean, sandalwood, cedar, and cacao.

On me, the majority of the time I just smell the whipped cream, marshmallow, cotton candy, and Loukhoum/Turkish Delight. I don’t get the ice cream or gelato as the sweetness isn’t creamy or milky or a rich custard. That’s why it reminds me more of a frosting, like from powdered sugar since it has a strong sweet powder smell. I can very faintly smell nuttiness (though never actual pistachio) early in the wear time after the initial dry down. Every so often when I wear it, the cardamom makes itself known, and occasionally the rum. However, I never get a single whiff of floral or wood notes. I don’t ever smell bergamot or citrus either. It’s always just super sweet vanilla with a powdery edge to it. That’s why I felt a straightforward dessert photo perfectly represents how this fragrance smells on me.

I’ve heard some people call it soapy, say it smells fresh like shaving cream or aftershave. I can somewhat see the connection. Regarding longevity, it’s one of the most projecting fragrances I own since I can smell it on myself for 3-5 hours (depending on one spritz or two) without needing to put my nose right up to where I sprayed. However, even though I stop smelling it at that point, I’m told it can still be smelled on me for 6-7 hours. Putting my actual nose up to it, I can still smell it up to 8 hours. This is quite a lot considering I normally have to put my nose close to where I sprayed after 1-3 hours for everything since in my daily life I only spray myself once or twice.

Although it can be disappointing that the pistachio isn’t very prominent, as that’s one of the few consensuses with this perfume, this is still the ultimate gourmand scent for me.

My one complaint is that every marketing photo I’ve seen shows the travel sizes as being the same color as the big bottle, a gorgeous pale green. However, below is what it actually looks like. In order to get the color I wanted, I cut the box packaging into the shape of the edges and taped it to the back (seen in the group photo at the top of the page). The full size presentation was partly what I was drawn to as well, so now my 10ml bottle is prettier and I’m less disappointed.

Also seen at the top is the fragrance case for the full-size bottle. I was so drawn in by the color and I love quilted patterns, so I got it to hold all my Kayali sample and travel size vials, which this holds comfortably. I can even fit the discovery set box in there.

Vanilla Royale Sugared Patchouli 64

Photo Credit: HowSweetEats

If you’re familiar with my blog, or me on a personal level, you know I despise patchouli. So it’s quite reasonable anyone would be confused why I’d go out of my way to buy a 1.5 ml vial of this. The answer is Influencers! I heard people say this could convert a non-patchouli lover into a fan. Of course, I was doubtful, but the other notes in this perfume are such absolute favorites of mine: vanilla and tonka bean, crème brulée, brown sugar, amber, and even rum. It was advertised as being sweet, warm, and spicy which sounded delectable enough for me to give it a try and hope that it would surprise me. Wow, did it ever surprise me! I really am astonished by how much I like this fragrance! Delicious, cozy, and captivating are some words I’d use to describe it. It’s still patchouli forward. There’s no ignoring it. But in a strange way, it works. If this scent could be described as the start of a novel, it would be about a sweet wholesome girl dragged to a nightclub by her “riskier” friends and making eyes with a certain someone across the room. He’s dangerous. She knows she should stay away from him, but he’s too hot to ignore. He awakens a spicy passion inside her while she’s simultaneously bringing out the softer more dependable side of him.

I’m not sure if others would agree, but this leans a little masculine. Perhaps it’s the rum or leather note that makes me feel that way, but this gives me similar vibes of Maison Margiela Replica Jazz Club even though they only really have rum and vanilla notes in common. I’ve long been a fan of Jazz Club, so the association is a good thing in my book.

Just like Yum Gelato, this one is labeled as an Eau de Parfum Intense. However, Vanilla Royale has the shortest wear time on me of all ten Kayali scents in this review. I get 5 hours of wear time maximum, and the sweet and spicy profile doesn’t change in that time either. How it smells at the start is pretty much how it remains until the end. I even bought a second vial to ensure that it wasn’t just my particular sample that was off. That’s the one I could get up to 5 hours with, whereas my original was 4-5.

As much as I like it, I would normally only wear this on very specific occasions and with how much of my budget goes to makeup and brushes, I can’t afford to add perfumes to my collection that are not for everyday use. However, I will enjoy the 1.5mls until they run out, and after that point I will consider getting the 10 ml in the future.

Lovefest Burning Cherry 48

Photo Credits: Lounge, PanAmericaSeed, and WonkyWonderful

Prior to Yum Gelato, Tom Ford’s Lost Cherry was my scent obsession. I had the sample vial but could never justify spending so much on the travel size, let alone full-size (especially when the scent fades so fast). I was ecstatic when the tart deep rich syrupy cherry smell I loved from Lost Cherry was present in Lovefest, though mixed with other notes to make it extra tantalizing. When I smell this perfume, it gives me a primal reaction. This sensation stems from my gut and this feeling that I want to sink my teeth into something delicious comes over me.

I really need to finish watching Nanatsu No Taizai/Seven Deadly Sins

It’s a deep sensual perfume. The photo inspiration represents three positive triggers for me: the florals, the edible nature of it, and the sexiness. Being in a curtained off private section at a club or lounge with soft red velvet couches and being up close and personal with my significant other is the type of image Lovefest evokes. It fades fast after six hours, which is still better than Lost Cherry on me. Besides the cherry, the other notes I pick up are the praline (for that slight sugary nutty element), rose, and jasmine. Florals usually bring a fragrance down in my books, but the rose combined with the cherry is an especially successful combination. There are wood base notes listed for this perfume, but I’m not familiar with what things like Palo Santo or Guaiac Wood smell like. I honestly can’t distinguish what Peru Balsam or Vetiver Haiti Essence in the base notes are supposed smell like either. Perhaps they’re adding to the complexity of the fragrance or enriching them, but the simpler scents I can detect are the main players. There hasn’t been a time when I’ve smelled it and thought, “what is that unidentifiable wonderful note?”
I enjoy bergamot and raspberry scents, which are both listed as top notes, but I’ve yet to notice them in this perfume.
My one complaint is that for a brief time in the day, I can smell the patchouli and that twists it slightly into a direction I don’t like it to go. Thankfully, it’s not enough of a bother to ruin the fragrance. Perhaps the notes that are unfamiliar to me are what keeps the patchouli from eclipsing the others. So, I still very much consider Lovefest a favorite, even with that unwelcome element.

Vanilla 28

Photo Credit: PinkyPiggu

According to the brand, “Vanilla Royale Sugared Patchouli is an intense take on Vanilla 28.” I know so many people love this one, but I only like it in the first hour. I much prefer Vanilla Royale because it has everything in 28, plus extra notes for extra complexity. One downside to Vanilla Royale is that I wanted there to be less patchouli. In Vanilla 28, there are less competing scents, which gives patchouli the opportunity to be even more pronounced.

The key notes in Vanilla 28 are vanilla orchid, tonka bean, brown sugar, amber woods, and musk. The wear time is average among my Kayali fragrances at 6 hours, but it has a wider range of projection than some of the others.

The photo I selected was based on the colors: orange walls for amber, the white floors representing the vanilla, the flowers and plants for the jasmine and patchouli. This location is a bakery, which ties in with the gourmand theme.

Even though this fragrance isn’t resonating with me like the others, it’s a decent perfume. It’s yummy and edible in the beginning, but as I continue wearing it, the notes I don’t care for as much start to dominate the remainder of the scent. So I like it less in the later hours. It starts at a high B grade but drops to a C grade by the end of its wear time.

I plan to use the remainder of my sample to pair with some other perfumes to heighten the sweetness in them, and see if that fixes the issue. Vanilla 28 is the type of perfume that I’d expect to be good for layering.

Musk 12

GIF Credit: BriJohnsonStudios

Every time I smell this perfume, I instantly think of my mother. For the first decade or so of my life, my mom only wore Avon’s Odyssey (the original formulation that launched in 1981). Then Avon reformulated it and she didn’t think it smelled the same, so for the next decade of my life she mainly wore Elizabeth Arden’s Red Door until that was ultimately changed too. So, from my entire childhood into young adulthood, I associate the combination of musks and florals with my mother. Kayali’s Musk 12 has lotus and freesia as top notes, musk and jasmine as middle notes, and vanilla and sandalwood at the base. Odyssey doesn’t have the same florals, but it has the musk plus lily-of-the-valley, magnolia, and mimosa. Red Door has fruits and other florals too, but it has musk, sandalwood, jasmine, and specifically freesia. It makes sense that mom is the first thing that comes to mind. This also means I typically consider this type of scent profile to be a mature woman’s perfume, to put it nicely. It doesn’t stay that way though once it has time to settle. There’s something fresh and airy about it, which is completely counter the idea of “old lady perfumes” being a heavy floral or powdery smell. This musk combination is lighter and brighter. I was quite surprised that I liked it so much considering the hero note (musk) is one that I don’t mind having in a fragrance, but it has never excited me. For that to be the headliner, and like it, was something I never would have guessed. This is especially the case because my mom and I notoriously have opposite reactions to perfumes. She doesn’t like what I love and vice versa. Of course, I had to have my mother smell it and her face lit up. She loves this fragrance!

Musk 12 has an average wear time of six hours on me. The most interesting part is that between the first hour up til the end of wear, it takes on a very soapy quality to the scent. I don’t know if that has to do with the aquatic element in lotus bringing that out on my skin, but it’s like the creamiest soap smell (perhaps even the creaminess from the sandalwood). I love that part about it, though I haven’t heard it described that way by anyone else. Might be a me thing!

I like this, but considering how many of Kayali’s fragrances already have musk in it, it’s not necessary for me to buy it in a larger form. However, I could see this being great for someone who wants it for layering purposes and to pair it with a different Kayali fragrance to amp up the musk presence. Actually, I think I will end up purchasing it for my mom this coming Christmas!

Déjà vu White Flower 57

Photo Credit: BestHDWallpaper
Photo Credit: HGTV

There was a point in time where I really loved white florals. Although, I don’t consider myself a fan of floral forward scents, white florals have the highest chance of being something I’d like.

My first impression was, “oh this smells amazing! This is the kind of floral perfume I like,” but once it dried down it smelled like boring regular gardenia in the forefront. Then, I thought I was tripping because 20-30 minutes in I noticed fruity smells that I was not expecting, but pear and nectarine are notes that are listed. An hour in, it leaned stronger into the floral-sweetness from those orange blossom, tuberose, and jasmine notes. The base notes are Tahitian vanilla and sandalwood, though Fragrantica also lists patchouli and cashmere wood. However, out of those base notes, I can only smell vanilla added to the mix with that extra bit of sweetness.

In the times I’ve tried it since then, it’s lasted around 7 hours. I like this one, but I’ve used it the least times so far, surprisingly even less than Utopia. However, I will continue to wear this until the vial is finished. There’s something both cozy and wistful about it, which is why I very much wanted a white window with those white flowers looking out into the distance as the embodiment of this perfume in photo form.

Sweet Diamond Pink Pepper 25

Original Version Photo Credit: People

Sweet Diamond Pink Pepper and Gucci Guilty are both floral perfumes with pink peppercorn and bergamot as top notes and share patchouli, amber, and musk in common as base notes. So, even though they don’t smell the same, I was instantly reminded of it, and used a Gucci Guilty ad shoot photo edited with a pinkish tint to represent what I think when I wear this fun and flirty perfume.

It’s pretty impressive to me that when I smell the fragrance, I think, “Pink.” They nailed representing a color in a scent form. I think this is mainly due to the rose notes: Bulgarian Rose and Rose Centifolia. The full top notes are pink pepper, bergamot, royal lily, and saffron. The bergamot gives it a brightness that’s intoxicating, at least for the ten or so minutes that it lasts before being overshadowed by the florals. The middle notes are the two roses, along with magnolia, and vanilla orchid. The base notes are sandalwood, patchouli, musk, and amber.

Pink Diamond takes on more of an amber and sweet vanilla mixture towards the end, from around 5 hours onward. I can smell the pink peppercorn and rose almost the entire time though, which is between 6-7 hours, but the sillage is on the weaker side. Since florals can easily be nauseating or headache inducing for me (and others) if they’re too strong, I prefer for it to not project as far instead of having the opposite problem.

This is another hit from Kayali that I like, but I keep debating with myself as to whether I like it enough to buy it for the occasional enjoyment. I love some of the others far too strongly to take time away from using those on a regular basis. So I might or might not end up adding a travel size of this to my collection.

Utopia Vanilla Coco 21

When I initially spray this, it smells fantastic. I get the coconut and citrus element from the Italian Lemon. It’s instant vacation vibes. But as soon as the air settles, I can’t smell it on me. Even after two sprays to the same spot, this just doesn’t project or I have some olfactory issue that keeps me from being able to smell it without putting it right up to my nose.

In putting my nose right on it, very quickly, the honeysuckle and pear blossom take over and combine with the milkiness of the coconut to create a milky floral scent. Sounds fascinating in theory, but I don’t like that. I like milky scents, but not smelling like actual straight up milk. This perfume makes me think of sunscreen or rather this very specific oil product from Avon that I owned as a teen that was supposed to give a golden glow to the hair and skin that I cannot remember the name of. While it succeeds in making me think of an aesthetically pleasing relaxed beach setting, it’s simultaneously unsettling. It’s like if the island from the movie The Menu took place in Hawaii. The setting would be different but the outcome would be the same.


Then comes the jasmine, gardenia, tuberose, and ambrette. Again, white florals aren’t so bad for me, but it improves the scent only slightly. It’s followed by the base notes of vanilla bourbon, patchouli, sandalwood, and musk. It’s a final mix of likes and dislikes. I can smell it on my skin between 6-7 hours, but it’s probably for the best that I can’t if it’s not literally an inch away from my nose.

As for the opinions of others, my boyfriend doesn’t care for it (I think this is the only one he’s ever flat out said he didn’t like). On the flip side, one of my best friends (who likes coconut plus florals) could smell it when we hugged and she commented that she likes it. Funnily enough, I wore it that day specifically because I knew she’d probably like it. So, I guess you have to really love florals and coconut combined to enjoy this one. And out of all the Kayali ones I’ve smelled, this is the only one I dislike.

Invite Only Amber 23

Photo Credit: Banyan

This is the predecessor of Lovefest. The cherry that I’m consumed by is in this fragrance too, though not the complete star of the show. In the beginning, the sourness from the cherry, the sweetness from the honey, and smokiness from the tobacco work together to deepen the smell and hit multiple scent trigger points for me. There’s some chocolate in the top notes, but it’s barely detectable compared to the others and just adds to the overall gourmand experience. Just like with Lovefest, the cherry and rose combination with the vanilla kicking in at around two hours is a lovely balance. The tobacco continues to provide the smoky element for the remainder of the wear time, combined with the presence from those base notes. They’re listed as being oud oil, cypriol, musks, amber, benzoin, sandalwood, patchouli, and vanilla.

This is another Eau de Parfum Intense, which explains why it lasts longer than usual at around 7-8 hours on my skin. I like this, but I love Lovefest, so it wouldn’t make much sense for me to purchase another size of this one. I am tempted though! Just like with Lovefest, I get a visceral reaction to the scent.

It’s so good!

Eden Juicy Apple 01

This was my first Kayali purchase. I bought it blindly two weeks prior to getting the discovery set last Halloween. I wish I knew the discovery set existed before I bought it because I would have purchased one of the other Kayali scents as a travel size instead.

I enjoy the apple scent, but after 15 minutes it morphs into a vague fruity smell similar to Minute Maid’s Mixed Berry Juice, the type that no specific note stands out besides apple and some variety of berries. Eventually, the apple disappears and the unspecified berry smell is what remains, along with jasmine and rose. The official top notes are red apple, blackcurrant, pink grapefruit, and lychee. Middle notes are wild berries, raspberry blossom, jasmine, and rose centifolia/may rose/cabbage rose. The Kayali website lists dry notes as vanilla flower, amber, sugared moss, and sensual musk.

The photos I took from one of my trips to Germany embody how I feel about this perfume because the apple (wrong color but still serves a purpose) is camouflaged here. I considered posting a picture of an apple core instead to represent the severe lack of apple in a fragrance with apple literally in the name! The note is there, but it doesn’t have much presence beyond the first 30 minutes. The story behind the berry bush photo is that none of us were certain what type it was. The best guess was elderberry or something akin to that. So it matched the vague mixed berry element.
Thankfully, I love fruity scents, and berries are among the top, so this fragrance is still one that I like. However, there are elements to this scent that reminds me of Mugler’s Angel Nova. They share the raspberry, lychee, and rose notes in common, but Angel Nova does it better. There was a point in time that I was addicted to the scent (I left my bottle behind in Germany), but Eden Juicy hasn’t elicited that same reaction out of me. Angel Nova’s downside is longevity (though it clings better to my clothes than my skin), but I get a slightly longer wear time of 6-7 hours with Eden Juicy. Then again, how well it lasts and the decent sillage doesn’t matter if the scent doesn’t excite me as much as the others.

My all-time favorite apple scented perfume was quite niche and sadly discontinued. It’s one of those fragrances that people either loved or hated: Pretty Rotten No. 33 Tokyomilk Dark by Margot Elena. It was cloying in the best way, dark, tart and sour yet with honeyed sweetness, and with rose in the background. Oh, how I loved it! This kind of apple is one I yearn for again, but I also like a bright fresh apple scent too. This one just doesn’t fit me as perfectly, even though it contains notes like these that should have been a slam dunk for me.


That’s all 10 reviewed! As it stands, if I were to rank my favorites based on the scents alone and not the longevity, sillage, or other factors it would be…

  1. Yum Pistachio Gelato – S tier
  2. Lovefest Burning Cherry – A tier
  3. Invite Only Amber – A tier
  4. Vanilla Royale Sugared Patchouli – A tier
  5. Sweet Diamond Pink Pepper – B tier
  6. Eden Juicy Apple – B tier
  7. Musk 12 – B tier
  8. Deja Vu White Flower – B tier
  9. Vanilla 28 – C tier
  10. Utopia Vanilla Coco – D tier

Spots 5-9 fluctuate all the time, depending on my mood. The perfumes are so close in rank that there could be several ties on the list! My only confident answers are my top 1-4 and the last place winner.

I hope you’ve enjoyed this bonus post for the week! Thank you for reading!

-Lili